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Hello All, Long time no chat,
As for end rails... very common in Australia at least, The idea is to use them to stop thin work from being ejected off the end, the belief being that thin work often has too little available mass and therefore the magnets don't necessarily grip so well, so you lift the rail up just enough to stop the part slipping off, we used as little as 0.25mm of height to help hold a 0.5mm shim, as I said just enough to assist the magnet, if the wheel does grab the part aggressively it will do so at the other end of the job as it is starting to cut in which case the shim can skip up over the rail and fly away but once the wheel is on top of the shim it's vertical force helps the magnet grip the shim.
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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Hello stranger!
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As many of you know, I have been rearranging my home shop over the past year or so. Major adjustments had to be made to fit in my Eliott lathe and more recently my two post hoist. The next thing that will need to be accommodated is the surface grinder, which is hiding underneath a sheet in the shop at my Mum's house.
Unfortunately, I won't be in a position to do the extension to my shop for some time yet, so I am going to have to rethink my original plan. Initially, I wanted the surface grinder well away from my lathe and mill. However, I could probably sit it quite comfortably where my stock rack is. Given the amount of use that it will see, should I be concerned in having it this close to the lathe and mill?
Second, I still need to get a wheel. I have found a supplier locally but will have to contact them, as their catalog shows part numbers with minimal descriptions. I've contacted Norton, to see who their Australian distributor is and I'm waiting on their reply. Ken gave me the following advice:
(11-23-2014, 06:01 PM)PixMan Wrote: ...Start with a Norton 32A-46VBE or similar....
I downloaded the Norton wheel selection guide and there is an additional character in the nomenclature (e.g. 32A-46 HVBE). However, I cannot seem to see this particular character defined on the chart. Am I missing something?
I'm guessing that this relates to the hardness of the wheel, as outlined in the post by Tom on grinding wheels but just want to be sure.
Also, as a first wheel, should I stick with a 1/2" thickness?
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Darren,
I could purchase the wheels for you and send them to you.
Ed
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Thanks for the offer Ed but I am confident that I can get them here.
If I cannot get the Norton ones, I am sure I can get equivalent ones. It is just a case of asking them to match the characteristics. Once I know whether I'm better off with a 32A-46FVBE, 32A-46GVBE, 32A-46HVBE etc as a general purpose wheel for steels (what I will mainly be grinding), I'll be able to see what I can get here.
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That letter is the grade or hardness of the wheel. They run the alphabet from C-Z, C being the softest and Z the hardest. Full explanation is at the bottom of page 4 and the top of page 5 in "How To Select The Right Grinding Wheel" from Norton. Sunset posted it in my thread on the Boyer-Shultz. If this link works, here it is: http://www.metalworkingfun.com/attachment.php?aid=12193
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My grinder(s) are too close, the shop is small, and dry grinding appeals to me more than coolant as I don't do much of it. So aside from a dust collector, I'm thinking a curtain might work better than nothing. A shop I used to work at used big canvas things like you might find in a welding shop.
Don't forget to wear a dust mask. To heck with the lathe. 
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The following 4 users Like Mayhem's post:
EdK (01-30-2016), Highpower (01-30-2016), f350ca (01-31-2016), PixMan (01-31-2016)
Spent some time yesterday repairing the cross slide leadscrew. The section that extends past the housing was missing. I assume the shaft had been bent and simply cut off. So I welded on an extension and then turned it down. The thrust bearing has a 12mm ID, so that dictates the size of the bore of the handle.
Once to size, I cut a M12x1.5 thread on the end. I've left more thread on than I need, just in case I need to place a washer between the wheel hub and the thrust washer. I'll mill the key slot once I have the handle in hand.
The two parts with a protective sleeve dug out of the scrap copper bin.
A bit of hot glue
Turned to diameter, cut to length and threaded (sorry about the crap pic)
Housing on to check the fit
Back on the grinder
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Nicely done Darren
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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