316L stainless basics?

[jawnn]

I have no info about how to work this. I wan to make a bicycle rack that can really handle the weight. and no painting.
can I bend a 0.125" x 1" T-316 Stainless Annealed flat bar with out heat?

I also have not been able to find info about keeping it from rusting. Does stainless need to be torched to red hot to oxidase the surface?
I will be cutting and drilling.

[PixMan]

I've never tried to purposely bend 316L, but have done that to small diameter bars in CNC Swiss style screw machine bar feeders!

You need no oxidizing the surface. What makes you think you should and what purpose would it serve? I have machined a good many motorcycle parts out of 316/316L stainless and they've never even lost their highly polished surface. And yes, it polishes up VERY shiny!

[stevec]

How much bend? 90 deg.? more? What sort of radius?

Steve

[TomG]

You'll be able to do a cold bend 316 over a 1/2t radius without issue. It's a bit tougher than mild steel though so it will take some effort. Rust is also not and issue on 300 series with normal exposure, even if it's welded.

Tom

[jawnn]

I was reading some thing about how it needs to be oxidized, or the first layer stops penetration. and some one once told me that oxidation was needed. ok wont worry about it.

I need to bend the eighth inch bar at 90 degrees but not too sharply. I got quarter inch for the down arms, a bit too heavy. it will be stronger than any other bicycle rack.

And only my self will be able to ride this cycle truck, unless I put a motor on it. Google utilitycyclingtechnology, if you want to see what I am up to.

[PixMan]

I have seen 300 series parts needing to be passivated to remove any traces of carbon steel or carbide in the surfaces to keep the parts from oxiding, but that's the only surface treatment I'm aware of.

[f350ca]

It oxidizes on its own. The chromium in it forms a chromium oxide layer that seals it. Iron does the same thing only iron oxide doesn't seal the surface and the oxidation continues.

[Roadracer_Al]

Another thing to know about cutting and drilling stainless is this: don't mince about! If you use light feed pressure, it will work harden, then just rub and dull your cutting tools. You want to use a good lube (I have stick wax for the bandsaw, and sulfured cutting oil for milling and lathing ops) and use enough feed to get a substantial chip.

[PixMan]

(02-22-2015, 01:20 PM)Roadracer_Al Wrote: Another thing to know about cutting and drilling stainless is this: don't mince about!  If you use light feed pressure, it will work harden, then just rub and dull your cutting tools.  You want to use a good lube (I have stick wax for the bandsaw, and sulfured cutting oil for milling and lathing ops) and use enough feed to get a substantial chip.

THIS is true! Stay in the cut, keep feeding.

I go fast enough and with turning or milling (NOT drilling with HSS) I cut dry.





An old video, so sorry about that but is does show what is possible.