Pulling a stuck case

[JScott]

I am trying a new reloading technique to create ammunition that is consistently concentric.  So far my rifles all like ammunition that is loaded at .003 TIR or less.  To do that I need to start with cartridge cases that have as little runout after resizing as possible.  The method I am experimenting with is very simple.  First I resize the case with the decapping rod in place but the expander ball is removed.  This sizes the case and neck concentrically and pops out the primer.  The second step is to put the expander ball back on the decapping rod and raise the decapping assembly up inside the sizing die nearly as high as it will go.  Then the previously sized case is run back up in the die and the case us pushed over the expander ball (instead of pulled like usual).  For this .270 Winchester so far this has given me cases that are consistently less than .002" of runout at the case neck.

The problem I had was that in the second step the cases still needed a little lube on them even though they had already been resized.  I thought they had enough residual lube on them from the first operation but some was removed when I ran them through my RCBS Case Master concentricity gauge.  At about case number 15 I felt the dreaded snap as the shellholder tore off the rim of a stuck case!

That shut me down for the night and here are the pictures of the procedure to pull the stuck case.

I used the 3-jaw chuck in my lathe as a vise to hold the die with the stuck case.  Three cardboard shims were used to protect the threads of the sizing die.

   

Next I drilled the case head with a No. 7 drill and tapped it to 1/4-20.

   

Then I used a 1 1/2 inch long socket head cap screw, a steel bushing and a hardened washer to pull the stuck case.

   

Here is the culprit removed and you can see the undamaged resizing die in the background.  I will make sure to use enough lube the next time I do this.  I have been reloading since 1975 and this is first time I have had a stuck case.

[TomG]

Nice tip! Thanks for taking the time to post it.

I used the same technique the other day to remove a 1/8" dowel pin that had been pushed flush into a blind hole (poor design ). I drilled and tapped a 2-56 hole in the end of the pin (the pin was 18-8 SS) and pulled it out using a bushing and screw.

Tom

[Highpower]

(10-16-2014, 10:21 AM)JScott Wrote: For this .270 Winchester so far this has given me cases that are consistently less than .002" of runout at the case neck.

Are you measuring neck thickness variation at all? What kind of average are you getting? Also, are you turning or reaming the case necks before sizing? Nice job of extracting  that stuck case. I'll bet you don't skimp on the lube any more though. 

It's not a question of if it will happen to you  --  but when it will happen. Once upon a time I thought I could get away with lubing every other case.....
   

[JScott]

(10-17-2014, 12:56 AM)Highpower Wrote:

(10-16-2014, 10:21 AM)JScott Wrote: For this .270 Winchester so far this has given me cases that are consistently less than .002" of runout at the case neck.

Are you measuring neck thickness variation at all? What kind of average are you getting? Also, are you turning or reaming the case necks before sizing?

My multi-anvil mic says that neck wall thickness in this brass varies less than 0.001".  I don't have a neck reamer for the .270 (or a turner) so these are just factory R-P cases that have been sized and trimmed to length.  I am pretty sure that this rifle wouldn't benefit from neck turning.

The next step is the shooting to see if the ammo sorted by concentricity shows any difference on the target.  I may have to cobble up some wind flags to help me dope out the conditions to help keep things equal.

If you all are interested I can start another thread with more details and results of this experiment.

[Highpower]

(10-17-2014, 07:47 AM)JScott Wrote: My multi-anvil mic says that neck wall thickness in this brass varies less than 0.001".  I don't have a neck reamer for the .270 (or a turner) so these are just factory R-P cases that have been sized and trimmed to length.  I am pretty sure that this rifle wouldn't benefit from neck turning.

The next step is the shooting to see if the ammo sorted by concentricity shows any difference on the target.  I may have to cobble up some wind flags to help me dope out the conditions to help keep things equal.

If you all are interested I can start another thread with more details and results of this experiment.

That is a pretty consistent thickness for factory brass.  Then again, I'm used to dealing with once fired military brass which can be all over the map. 

Head over to the local home center for cheap wind flags. Couple of wood dowels, a roll or two of surveyors tape, and Bob's your uncle.

I would love to see a thread about your procedure and results. Don't forget you are in the mist of a bunch of metalworking accuracy geeks!
Not having a reamer or turner is just an excuse to get out into the shop and make them!