Setting stroke on Douglas Shaper
#11
Hi Dallen, I'll take a look at the material you suggested. The block is actually 1.25 deep and wide by 1.75 tall. I loosened the gibs a little and its not as bad now.

I just tried turning the shaper on and let some magic smoke out! I knew I shouldn't have trusted the wiring but I don't really know enough to question it. After having a look the PO has attached the neutral wire to ground which I'm pretty sure isn't right. I checked my wiring and I have 220 across the hot wires and 120 between both hot and neutral.

[Image: image.jpg]

Based on this wiring diagram the hot wires should go to 1 and 3 and the neutral to 2? I have unplugged the shaper for now, I'm hoping the breaker saved the motor from too much damage, there wasn't much smoke  Bash

Shawn
Shawn, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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#12
your right in that you should have 220 across the two hot legs and 110 from each leg to neutral.

hot fully the motors isn't hurt, from the photo you should hook up to 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 depending on if you want it to run HI or LO speed, To change directions you can switch the blue and white or 4 and 5 to swap direction the motor will run.

did the smoke come from the motor or the contactor.

If you can post a photo of the label on the contactor that shows the data label it would help,

this is a new switch that you wired in do you have any data on it, a good heavy duty double pole toggle switch rated at about 30 amps would work just find for that motor.

DA

P.S. you haven't burned up electric motors until you smoke a couple 125 HP ones at the same time, cost about 18,000.00, and get the supreme pleasure of calling the boss and telling him what he gets to buy, Priceless.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#13
Thanks for the reply and advice Dallen. Turns out one if the hot wires was only loosely connected in the motor. Is it possible that the motor could have run with only one hot wire and the ground? If so I imagine this would have caused it to run hot and may have resulted in the circuit breaker tripping.  With the second hot wire properly seated the motor is running much cooler and it might be my imagination but seems to be starting with much more torque.

It certainly does sound like you have let out some pretty powerful/expensive magic Dallen?
Shawn, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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#14
Shawn, you never run neutral to a motor unless its running on 110. Can't quite make out the voltages on the tag but it looks like the low voltage is 208, somehow you can get that voltage on one leg of 3 phase, (Im not a sparky) so for 220 or 230 volt depending on how you interpret it your power should come in on pins 1 and 3.
The speeds listed are for 50 and 60 Hz.

A better shot of the plate would be nice to make sure.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#15
Thanks Greg, it was my mistake on the neutral, it is a ground wire. I'm going to have an electrician come over and have a look. I thought I had it sorted but I just turned the shaper on and there was a notcher loud pop, motor stayed running though. I won't mess with it any further. I am learning a bit every time I have electrical issues though, if I keep this up I might just get dangerous?
Shawn, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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#16
Here is a better photo

[Image: image.jpg]
Shawn, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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#17
(09-23-2014, 02:05 PM)Shawn Wrote: Hi Dallen, I'll take a look at the material you suggested. The block is actually 1.25 deep and wide by 1.75 tall. I loosened the gibs a little and its not as bad now.

I just tried turning the shaper on and let some magic smoke out! I knew I shouldn't have trusted the wiring but I don't really know enough to question it. After having a look the PO has attached the neutral wire to ground which I'm pretty sure isn't right. I checked my wiring and I have 220 across the hot wires and 120 between both hot and neutral.

[Image: image.jpg]

Based on this wiring diagram the hot wires should go to 1 and 3 and the neutral to 2? I have unplugged the shaper for now, I'm hoping the breaker saved the motor from too much damage, there wasn't much smoke  Bash

Shawn

Let me check at the post office to see if I can send a hunk up that way without having to take out a loan at the bank I can cast up a block the next time I fire up the furnace, my little 4 X 6 band saw doesn't like the stuff.

DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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#18
That would be great Dallen, what's it like to machine? I have no issue paying the postage if your willing to cast me a piece.

Cheers
Shawn
Shawn, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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#19
Hey Greg, couldn't help myself and hooked up the hot wires to 1 and 3 and the motor even sounds better. Runs a little faster but in the lowest range on the belts it runs and cuts really nice. I will probably never adjust the speed from there. It still seems to be running a bit hot to me but I can still put my hand on the casing so maybe it's not that bad? Its a new motor so is it possible the bearings will seat it and run cooler after a few hours?

Shawn
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#20
Hi Shawn, thanks for the better photo, Dallen was correct, it is a two speed motor for 220 volt only. My mistake they often list hi and low for the voltages but in this case its the speed. So it should run with power to lugs 2 OR 3 to give you two speeds electrically.
As for running hot guess thats relative, it lists thermal protection so should shut down if it gets too hot.
Glad you got it running.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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