Todays Project - What did you do today?
Ken, does your rotary table have a Jacobs taper centre hole? Mine does, if so you can make an arbour to mount your blank. The indexing plates i have fit the rotary table as well as the indexing head.
Be a good excuse to get a shaper, great for cutting internal key ways.
Could you broach the gear a standard size if you have a broach, then make a stepped key to fit the shaft.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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I would run my 3/16" broach through before finishing to 6mm in the lathe as you mentioned.
Or you could do as Greg suggested.
(12-22-2013, 11:39 PM)f350ca Wrote: Could you broach the gear a standard size if you have a broach, then make a stepped key to fit the shaft.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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My rotary table is a Phase II 10" and should have a MT3 bore....but it doesn't. It's a short 25mm straight bore, only about 20mm deep. I have no room for, nor any desire to get a shaper. Yes, I know what they can do and have run them before. I just can justify getting one in the small shop I have just because it can do a couple of little things I can't easily do on my turret mill.

It occurred to me that I don't have to broach it. It's a "low force, low speed" gear, so I'm just going to lay it flat on my milling machine and make a "horseshoe shaped" keyway. Simple.
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Ken,

Left my phone at work today 12/23 and honestly was so damn busy didn't even have a chance to look at it today, so if you texted me....sorry.....I really was too busy to even look at it.

Listen, there's no snow right now. You ready for the Yam? Don't spend money on the gear, you're going to need that for this machine and materials!

If so, I will call and get it over to you right away. Pay me for the truck charges when you can, I know where you live.....so it's not a problem!

Later,
Russ
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Spent the best part of the day sorting out the numerous tins, boxes, bags etc of wood screws and small machine screws (M4 and smaller) that I have. A lot went into my scrap bin but I now have several parts boxes with good assortments that I can now find easily.

This is part of the purge that took place on the weekend, as I prepare my home shop for when I move my lathe here.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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I finished up the 316SS motorcycle axles, including the metric threads. Came out beautiful, though I forgot to take photos before Neil and I left the shop.

Tomorrow I'll be remaking the blank for the 70 tooth gear, this time in annealed 4150 steel instead of "scrapbinium." I'll also be making blanks for the 30 and 35 tooth gears I would also like to have, those will be made from a piece of Ø2-1/2" 1144SP which I bought along with the 4150.

I'll see if Neil can take some photos of the finished parts and post them. I don't think he's posted here yet, so I hope he's not been booted off yet.
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Pics or it didn't happen! 17428

Good thing I know you on a personal basis, otherwise I'd call bullshit! Rotfl

By the way.........looking for a career change? I need a good machinist!!

Ahhh....nevermind,......can't afford you anyways......you know too much!

Best Regards,
Russ
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OK Russ, just one picture for now. Neil took the parts home with him and said he'd take photos tomorrow and post them.

This is a quick photo I tool of the one piece he left behind for me to touch up on the milled hex. It's the thread we did today, an M12x1.25-6g. I used a pitch-specific Carmex 16ER-1.25ISO grade MXC lay-down threading insert. We had also made M25x1.5, M20x1.5, and M14x1.5 threads. All were "pull out" threads, meaning no thread relief groove (just as the original steel parts are.)

[Image: IMG_2069-r_zps1d7de9e4-1.jpg]

And yes, I can't afford to give up the job I have because I so love it! If I ever screw up and get canned...you got me!
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QC said we needed to get out of the shop so we went touring.

[Image: IMG_0962.jpg]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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I went to the shop and remade the blank for the 70T Mod 1.75 change gear I need for my lathe. I made one out of "scrapbinium" and it cut a lot like 1018CRS. The guy who's going to cut the teeth for me said it would not hob to a decent finish, so I went to a local steel supplier (Peterson Steel, Worcester MA) and got a Ø6" x 7/8" thick round of annealed 4150. I figured I might as well make a new one because I went .0012" oversize on the 20mm bore on the crappy material one.

Here's the stock as I faced off the sawn side. It was out of being parallel by almost .040" (1mm).
[Image: DSC_0450-r_zpscc14cb8a.jpg]

Here's the finished front side, it came out quite nice and the bore in now right at 20mm.
[Image: DSC_0452-r_zps75d3be32.jpg]

Now I've turned it around to finish the back side. Too thin to simply snug it up against the chuck jaw faces and the bore too small to get in there with an indicator. So what I did was use an indicator on the cross slide and "zero out" the DRO in Z axis. By retracting the cross slide just enough to velar the 6" diameter, I could move the carriage out to index between the jaws and then return the carriage to zero and run the cross slide back in. If anyone has a better way of doing it I'd like to hear it. The blank came out parallel within a "couple of tenths".
[Image: IMG_2073-r_zpsf55d6cd2.jpg]

Finish turning done, now I need to figure out a good way to get the 6mm keyway in it before shipping to the gear hobber.
[Image: DSC_0456-r_zpsc92a14b9.jpg]
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