Todays Project - What did you do today?

[EdK]

Ron,

Did you disassemble the chuck to clean it or just removed the arbor from the chuck? If you disassembled the chuck, how did you do it?

Thanks,
Ed

[ScrapMetal]

I completely dis-assembled the chuck. On the Jacobs ball-bearing chucks the process is fairly simple. This is from Jacobs site:

http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-repair.asp

Quote:Drill Chuck Repair / Dissassembly
Drill Chuck Support

This drill chuck repair guide outlines the methods of drill chuck repair for the various plain and ball bearing keyed drill chucks. This drill chuck repair guide is also available as a pdf document.
Keyed Drill Chuck Disassembly
Plain Bearing drill chucks:

Extend the jaws to half capacity, press the sleeve off over front (jaw end) of body, remove the nut halves. (illus. E).
Ball bearing drill chucks:

Extend the jaws to half capacity, press the sleeve off over front (jaw end) of body, remove the nut halves, jaws, bearing race. and thrust washer (illus. E).
Illus. E. - Drill Chuck Disassembly



Keyed Drill Chuck Assembly

CAUTION: Each of the three Jaws differ slightly from the other by the location of the threaded portion (illus. G). In order to ensure proper operation, they must be re-installed in the proper sequence.
Plain Bearing drill chucks:

Refer to illus. C and Insert the jaws in the correct sequence when viewing the chuck from the body nose diameter. Insert No. 1 jaw (with small step) first, then No. 2 jaw (With largest step) in the clockwise position, then No 3 jaw (without a step) should be inserted.

Turn chuck jaws to closed position and check to ensure that all three jaws are properly aligned. The height of all three jaws should be uniform.

A good grade of grease should be applied to the jaw and nut threads, then the nut halves should be closed around the jaws Extend jaws to half capacity. Press on the sleeve with an arbor press (illus. F).
Illus. F. - Drill Chuck Assembly



Ball bearing drill chucks:

Slip the thrust race over jaw end of the body until it contacts the rear flange. Slip the caged bearing over jaw end of the body until it contacts the thrust race.

Follow Plain Bearing jaw assembly and nut procedure.

JAW NUMBER INDICATED BY PROFILES SHOWN BELOW.



Illus. G. - Drill Jaw Number

Following directions I used my 12-ton hydraulic press to remove the outer shell. The innards are about as simple as can be. There is a lower bearing race that is a one piece "ring" and the upper bearing race which is split in half that also contains the threads for actuating the jaws.

The two hardest things are to keep track of the ball bearings and to figure out which jaws are which (1, 2, or 3). The diagram is helpful but the jaws never seem to look quite like the drawings.

In this case I didn't even bother to remove the arbor. Once I was done rebuilding the chuck (and the whole mess had been through a couple of baths) I just spent some quality time with some oil, a tap, and some paper towels to twist down into the threaded hole and remove excess "crap".

If necessary you can buy "rebuild" kits for Jacobs chucks (http://www.use-enco.com) that I have gotten for other chuck rebuilds but this one really didn't need it. Cleaning out the reddish-brown "glue" was all that was necessary to turn it back in to a smoothly working chuck.

-Ron

[EdK]

(12-04-2013, 05:27 PM)ScrapMetal Wrote: I completely dis-assembled the chuck. On the Jacobs ball-bearing chucks the process is fairly simple. This is from Jacobs site:

http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-repair.asp

Quote:Drill Chuck Repair / Dissassembly
Drill Chuck Support

This drill chuck repair guide outlines the methods of drill chuck repair for the various plain and ball bearing keyed drill chucks. This drill chuck repair guide is also available as a pdf document.
Keyed Drill Chuck Disassembly
Plain Bearing drill chucks:

Extend the jaws to half capacity, press the sleeve off over front (jaw end) of body, remove the nut halves. (illus. E).
Ball bearing drill chucks:

Extend the jaws to half capacity, press the sleeve off over front (jaw end) of body, remove the nut halves, jaws, bearing race. and thrust washer (illus. E).
Illus. E. - Drill Chuck Disassembly



Keyed Drill Chuck Assembly

CAUTION: Each of the three Jaws differ slightly from the other by the location of the threaded portion (illus. G). In order to ensure proper operation, they must be re-installed in the proper sequence.
Plain Bearing drill chucks:

Refer to illus. C and Insert the jaws in the correct sequence when viewing the chuck from the body nose diameter. Insert No. 1 jaw (with small step) first, then No. 2 jaw (With largest step) in the clockwise position, then No 3 jaw (without a step) should be inserted.

Turn chuck jaws to closed position and check to ensure that all three jaws are properly aligned. The height of all three jaws should be uniform.

A good grade of grease should be applied to the jaw and nut threads, then the nut halves should be closed around the jaws Extend jaws to half capacity. Press on the sleeve with an arbor press (illus. F).
Illus. F. - Drill Chuck Assembly



Ball bearing drill chucks:

Slip the thrust race over jaw end of the body until it contacts the rear flange. Slip the caged bearing over jaw end of the body until it contacts the thrust race.

Follow Plain Bearing jaw assembly and nut procedure.

JAW NUMBER INDICATED BY PROFILES SHOWN BELOW.



Illus. G. - Drill Jaw Number

Following directions I used my 12-ton hydraulic press to remove the outer shell. The innards are about as simple as can be. There is a lower bearing race that is a one piece "ring" and the upper bearing race which is split in half that also contains the threads for actuating the jaws.

The two hardest things are to keep track of the ball bearings and to figure out which jaws are which (1, 2, or 3). The diagram is helpful but the jaws never seem to look quite like the drawings.

In this case I didn't even bother to remove the arbor. Once I was done rebuilding the chuck (and the whole mess had been through a couple of baths) I just spent some quality time with some oil, a tap, and some paper towels to twist down into the threaded hole and remove excess "crap".

If necessary you can buy "rebuild" kits for Jacobs chucks (http://www.use-enco.com) that I have gotten for other chuck rebuilds but this one really didn't need it. Cleaning out the reddish-brown "glue" was all that was necessary to turn it back in to a smoothly working chuck.

-Ron

Thanks Ron. That's very helpful.

Ed

[stevec]

(12-04-2013, 05:27 PM)ScrapMetal Wrote: remove the nut halves. (illus. E).
-Ron

Just a note, the first time I disassembled a Jacobs chuck I thought I'd broken the "nut". I took a chance and put it back together anyway and it worked fine.
By the time I'd done the second or third chuck of my life I had learned that the "nut" is "broken" at the factory, I don't think assembly could be done if the "nut" was one piece.

[ScrapMetal]

Good point and "same here". Seeing that upper race/threads "broken" in two can be upsetting. Been there, done that. I guess a clean break makes a better fitting (and cheaper) joint than trying to machines something that way.

-Ron

[f350ca]

My Logan shaper has always been noisy, REALLY noisy, checked a couple of U-Tube videos and the ones on there are nice and quiet. Was pretty sure the belt drive was the problem, tore it apart and found that the double pulley that varies the ratio was made of some hard plastic, maybe a phenolic judging from the age of the machine. The centre section was cast in two parts but they'd separated and came loose from the bronze bushing that they were to slide sideways on. The bushing could walk over to the side and one of the halves was almost unsupported, and the centres had worn to where they flopped around on the bushing.
The parts listing shows this as an assembly but if someone put it together i should be able to take it apart. Getting it back together is the problem some times.
The side pulley halves ended up being pinned and glued to the hollow centre shaft. The needle bearing it rides on had to be removed to drive the pins through, (new one coming tomorrow, dented the edge trying to get it out), with the pins out used a bearing splitter and a puller to shear the glue joint. Sorry no pictures, my bad forgot.
With it apart I made a new bushing with a larger OD, then bored the centre parts for a sliding fit to the bushing.





Washed it down with acetone then glued the centre together with 2 part epoxy, then installed the end , the halves had to be indexed to fit into the sides.



Hopefully the new bearing will be in tomorrow and we'll have a quiet machine.

[Mayhem]

And here I was thinking that shapers were suppose to be noisy, so you didn't forget to turn them off before going home!

Nice save Greg - let us know if it resolves the problem.

[f350ca]

Update on the noisy shaper. The bearing came in this morn, the machine was a lot quieter but still too noisy. Swapped the 3 inch motor pulley for a 1 1/2 and what a difference. Not sure whats supposed to be on it but the intermediate shives were spinning way too fast. Still strokes faster than it needs but now will crawl in low. Watch the chips fly now.

[awemawson]

Made a long awaited hex recessed 5/8" x 2" BSF grub screw for my Edwards folder re-build using my recently repaired die-sinking EDM Machine. Hadn't been able to source one as long as 2" commercially. Had to make the right size electrode first of course.

Andrew

[PixMan]

Today I worked on a project for my motorcycling friend Neil. He's building two custom 2-stroke bikes (Yamaha RD350 or RZ400, don't recall), and wanted to make new axles out of 316 stainless steel. Nasty stuff!!

He had bought a 23" long piece of 1-3/8" round, I cut it into one 12" and one 11" long pieces. The 11" long one will need a 20mm hole through it, the 12" long one will need a 12mm hole through it. I ordered an extended length 12mm Dormer HSS-Co drill and a similar Precision Twist Drill Co. 23/32" drill from eBay today, should have them later this week. There didn't seem to be any affordable 20mm drills, so a 23/32" is .7812" vs. 20mm at .7874". Close enough. They cost me just under $65 for both.

So today was a good day to put in starting holes with the two extra long Cleveland HSS-Co 3/8" drills I just had resharpened by a friend. (They'd been dulled when Darren & I made parts for his steady rest.) I ran them at 270rpm, which works out to be 26.5sfm. I wanted to keep it at 30sfm or less, so that was a good speed. You could never drill this work-hardening stainless without coolant, so I'm so glad my lathe has that! I didn't measure, but my calibrated eyeball says the holes are concentric to the OD within .010"TIR.

Here's the required photos:





We've already made a pair the solid ones in the center of the print. I can't finish until the drills arrive, plus he's got to edit the larger one for some changes in the big diameter.