Timber Framing Saw
#1
Started on the blacksmith/foundry addition for the shop. The timbers are cut and the footings poured.
Now for the fun part, cutting the timber joints. So we need a portable saw capable of cutting 6 inch material.
Bought a makita electric chain saw for the power unit.

[Image: IMG_0741.jpg]

It will be mounted vertically to an aluminum base with the blade protruding through a slot. The base roughed out on the table saw.

[Image: IMG_0739.jpg]

Will build a bracket that bolts to the table and the saw bar. This is the brace / handle that will stiffen it.

[Image: IMG_0742.jpg]

More to come as the design evolves, this is another one of those design as we machine projects.

Out of curiosity how often does anyone use the swivel base on the milling vice. Can't remember the last time it was on the vice.

[Image: IMG_0740.jpg]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#2
Greg,

I've never used the swivel base that came with my 4" vise. I've had it for probably 8 years now.

Ed
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#3
I'm a bit lost (what's new?) but I'll be following this thread!
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#4
Steve I need a saw that will cut the tenons on the ends of the posts and tenons and sockets to join the beams. Could do it the classic way with a hand saw but what fun is that. This will also work to trim the ends of the beams. The skill saw, (no skill when its in my hands) will only cut about 2 inches deep so even cutting from both sides leaves a fair bit in the middle to cut by hand. Makita makes a 16 5/16 inch skill saw that will cut 6 inches but I sure can't afford it.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#5
I have a swivel base for my 6" cheap Chinese vise (which I hope to replace someday soon with a genuine Kurt.) When I had the vise mounted on it I found that the base left the bottom of the vise out of flat by a "couple of thousandths" of an inch so it couldn't mill surfaces square to each other. Now with the vise sitting alone on the table it's within a few "tenths." With a 2-axis CNC control I'll never need the base though I might want to take a clean-up cut on it so that the new owner (when I do sell it off) will have a good setup.
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#6
Hi Greg,
Nice start, very nice electric chain saw Thumbsup

I don't use the swivel base much - but it can come in real handy when needed.
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#7
Looks like we have a workable saw. Haven't tested it yet, the bucket is on the tractor and the timbers are no where near a plug-in, dam electric chain saws.

[Image: IMG_0743.jpg]

Drilled the bar and mounted it to the base.

[Image: IMG_0745.jpg]

May need to find a beter piece of angle iron for the guide, this one has a small bend at the end.

[Image: IMG_0747.jpg]

Saw mounted.

[Image: IMG_0748.jpg]

seams to have a good balance, but may need to open up the slot the bar goes through to beter see the cut.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#8
Interesting! you should send that to Stan he would be interested in how it works.
oldgoaly, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jun 2013.
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#9
Here is a link to a commercially made version of this project, the Carpenters Chain Saw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifAnmTkONqE

Walter
starlight_tools, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Apr 2012.
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#10
Didn't know anyone made them Walter but starting at $5700 I don't think I'd have been buying
Got a timber into the shop and gave it a try.

[Image: IMG_0751.jpg]

Seams to cut nice and square, but do need to open up the mouth to get a better view of the chain.

[Image: IMG_0750.jpg]
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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