Selecting A Parting Tool
#1
I need help in selecting a parting tool system. I have a Kenametal parting tool but the inserts suck. I'll post what I have and the problems I'm having and then maybe you experienced machinists can help me either fix the problem with my current tooling or help me make a wise decision on purchasing an adequate parting tool.

Stay tuned.

Yours in frustration,
Ed
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#2
To start off, I have a Kenametal KGSPR8094 NGO parting tool holder. Inserts, I'll have to dig deep to find out what I have.

Ed
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#3
You have choices of single or double ended inserts, and a choice of "monoblock", modular or blade style holders.

Sounds like you are currently using a 1/2" shank monoblock holder and single ended inserts.

What other holders would you look at, and do you have any blade holder blocks?
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#4
(07-11-2013, 08:09 AM)PixMan Wrote: You have choices of single or double ended inserts, and a choice of "monoblock", modular or blade style holders.

Sounds like you are currently using a 1/2" shank monoblock holder and single ended inserts.

What other holders would you look at, and do you have any blade holder blocks?

Ken,

I'm not set on any style. I just want one that will work with steel. The Kenametal one I currently have works OK on non-ferrous metals but the inserts are so dull they just rub when I try using them on steel. I'll post some pictures of the inserts this evening showing the incredibly dull edges.

Ed
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#5
I have a Kenametal one that walks through steel, wonder if you have the wrong inserts.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#6
Greg, can you give us the Kenametal part or product numbers? and does the holder accept different width inserts?
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#7
Here are some pictures of the parting tool and inserts that I currently have.

Ed

   

   

   
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#8
Those should work just fine on steels, Ed. My guess is that you're just not feeding them anywhere near hard enough.

Throw a piece of steel in the chuck, say 1" diameter. Set the spindle speed to at least 1000 rpm. Set the cross axis feed rate to .004" feed per rev, and stand aside when you engage the clutch.

You'll get nice little curled chips!

Ken



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#9
(07-11-2013, 05:46 PM)PixMan Wrote: Those should work just fine on steels, Ed. My guess is that you're just not feeding them anywhere near hard enough.

Throw a piece of steel in the chuck, say 1" diameter. Set the spindle speed to at least 1000 rpm. Set the cross axis feed rate to .004" feed per rev, and stand aside when you engage the clutch.

You'll get nice little curled chips!

Ken

Ken,

I wondered if my feed rate was too wimpy. I'll give it a try but that scares the hell out of me using the power cross feed for parting off. Yikes

I see in the video you didn't use any cutting oil. Is cutting oil not necessary when parting off with carbide inserts?

Ed
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#10
Don't be afraid Ed. Like sex it's only scary the first time, after that you just want it all the time. Big Grin

Oil or coolant isn't required for parting off or turning with carbide inserts. The chips are supposed to take the heat away from the cutting zone. Coolant can help maintain size and finish in long turning, as things can heat up in the long run.

Here's a cutoff with a little too little feed rate and you can see the chips turning blue. It's done with a single-ended insert in a blade style holder, where the other video was a monoblock tool similar to yours, though .156" wide rather than your .094" one.



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