ER32 Adapter(purchased)
#1
Question 
Hi again,
I am having problems working out if this ER32 adapter (for myford nose) is good or bad as i have never used one before? Blush
Anyway, I took a video on my phone and put it on photobucket so it can be seen.
I started by showing my lathes run out, which looks okay? then moved onto the run out of the external parts of the adapter (i guess not too important?) but there seems to be more errors. Then i popped a bit of silver steel into the collet (installed properly by clicking into the nut first) tightened up with the spanner and can see a lot of error there. 17428
I then popped my 3 jaw chuck in and had far less errors?
It looks crap to me, but I am not really sure if i have overlooked anything Chin
Movie here if any one cares to look Popcorn

[Image: th_video-2013-02-02-11-57-00_zps3c712040.jpg]

Thanks Smiley-dancenana
Andy Popcorn

b4dyc, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012. Oh yeah
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#2
Andy,

Do you not have a DTI to do those measurements with? Even so, that does look like crap. I could see the adapter wobbling without even looking at the dial indicator. Not good.

Check for swarf in the mating areas and for burrs on all parts of the adapter including the collet.
A dowel pin or gauge pin would be better for taking the measurement but silver steel shouldn't be too bad. Smiley-gen163

Ed
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#3
Hi Andy,

The spindle run-out looks great. But the fit of the adapter is bad. The way that it wobbles as you screw it onto the spindle clearly shows the ID of the adapter is oversize. It needs to be tighter, both in the thread fit and the register for the spindle nose.

Seek out a new adapter... Smiley-gen163
Willie
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#4
Thanks Ed
I thought i was using a DTI ? Do i need to use the one that has a little arm on it then? I think I have one of them.
It has been cleaned many times on all threads :)
I have tried a few other collets and all showed a bit of error.
I found this nice piece of silver steel so thought this would be pretty good(as can be seen when held in the lathe chuck)
You are correct, I thought I could see it running out of true as well !
I really dont know :(

I was hoping it would make life easy for me getting things running true. Guess not
Andy Popcorn

b4dyc, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012. Oh yeah
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#5
Thanks Willie
I thought the spindle looked good :) but never had anyone confirm it.
I did show the wobble as I was fitting it as when i have seen other forum posts, most say they are tight? I did think it would be the register that mattered and the threads wouldn't really matter as much.
It might be a good idea to contact the guys I purchased it from then. At £40 I dont want to give up on it yet :)
Andy Popcorn

b4dyc, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012. Oh yeah
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#6
Andy,
The three jaw sure runs true. I've never used a lathe with a threaded spindle so maybe should not comment. The indexing portion behind the threads appears to be straight rather than tapered, anything mounting to that is going to need to be a very tight fit or you'll have run out. Measure the bore on your three jaw and compare it to the collet adaptor. I suspect the collet adaptor is bored oversize.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#7
Once I realized there was a video (thanks to Willie's post) I was appalled at the slop of the internal threads of the adapter right up until it snugged against the face of the lathe spindle.
I think that is why the dial indicator showed little movement when registering on the face of the collet adapter but the diametric run-out reflected the slop seen in the threading on.
Just for fun, chuck it in your 3-jaw and indicate it.
BTW if you work to the precision I do you could go with that 3-jaw and forget the collets. LOL
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#8
Andy,
The register is more important than the threads, the important place to measure (with your gauge) is the inside of the taper.
Fix it to your lathe turn the spindle by hand and mark on the out side of the taper the point of maximum needle swing.
Take the ER chuck off the spindle and then screw it back on and measure it again - see if it coincides with the first mark.
If it does then the register is fine but the taper isn't coaxial to the cl [just for Mayhem] of the spindle.
A good place to start. Smile
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#9
It looks like total crap to meBashBash
If the holder was a good fit on the lathe spindle you could recut the taper
I made one for my Boxford it has 0.0005 runout
I tried it on my friends lathe and it has 5 thou
I think they have to be finish machined on the lathe they will be used on
John
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#10
Thank you all Blush
It looks well made but the proof is when fitted to a lathe.
From what i remember, it was about 6 - 7 thou out.
I will test the taper, as suggested DaveH. It would at least confirm the collets are true? I assume testing at the end where i did this on the video will be ok?
I am not sure I have the gear to fix it (or the knowledge tbh) Maybe a dremmel could be fixed up to grind the small amount to make it run true if it is lob-sided? Is there a tutorial or page that has this done by someone else? The reason i think grind is that the metal seems hard.

The register on the lathe is good at least Smile

I like the idea of fixing it to the silver steel and test the runout. I will take another video of different ideas and see where this leads me.Thanks Steve

I am guessing then, that even another one may have more or less errors on it John?

The 3 jaw is one of those that can be adjusted so i could with a bit more time get it a bit closer. Sure is easier than using this ER32 collet adapter Slaphead
But what i would like to do is transfer from the lathe to the George Thomas dividing head that i own (not used yet!)
Smiley-eatdrink004 Thanks all for the new list of things to check
Andy Popcorn

b4dyc, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012. Oh yeah
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