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Nice job on the knurler dallen, it looks like you got the dimensions of the mount just right. Did you make the main part out of a casting, or just cut it out of plate? Something to keep in mind when using this knurler, is that you can remove the end plate for knurling longer pieces if required. I've done that a few times with mine.
Tom
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I casted the plate, the rest of it I made from some square bar that I had so I didn't have to make a bunch of patterns, I was going to make a split pattern but decided not to, because it would of probably took a lot longer to do that route then just milling the arms out.
I found where you have posted the dimensions for the various parts the arms were suppose to be 1X1.250X2.69 so I'm a little bigger but hey its not going into a show.
Thanks for the complment
DA
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(12-15-2012, 01:28 PM)petertha Wrote: (12-15-2012, 04:29 AM)Arbalest Wrote: This is my simple clamp type one though:
Thats really nice. I kept a pic of your past picture for reference to make my own & forgot where it came from to begin with.
- do you have drawings?
- can you elaborate on the axles for the knurling wheels
- do you use a socket wrench on that hex part to bear down the knurls on the workpiece?
- Im also interested in how you managed the fit between the arms & plate. Ive heard that that is one of the ingrdients of good knurls - minimal side play or flex.
... so you are happy with how it works?
Sorry I don't have drawings but there are some on the net of the basic design.
Yes, I'm happy with the way it works as there is no "slop" between the body and the arms. I use a spanner on the nut but you could use a socket. The axles for the knurling wheels are socket shoulder screws which are ground and hardened I believe, but you could use drill rod (silver steel)
Arbalest, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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David,
A splendid job, coming along nicely
DaveH
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have to look an see what I have for knurl wheels I can take a couple old .5 brazed on lathe bits for shanks and see about knocking out a couple rollers for it.
Thanks for the compliment Dave.
DA
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David,
If you use unhardened blocks to hold the knurls, you should mill a shallow groove in the side where the locking set screw bears. Otherwise they will chew up the slots in your nice aluminum tool. Alternatively you could just case harden them and they will last a lifetime.
Tom
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could also use brass tipped screws to achive the same mark free surface, but I had planned on hardening them after I cut the slots and use dog point screws.
DA
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got a couple bars knocked out of some old .5 brazed on carbide lathe bits, and put a couple knurles that i have in them, BUT they are 3/4" diameter rollers, soooooo they only open up about 3/4 of and inch. gonna have to order up some .5 diameter rolls, in a diagonal pattern.
I think I am getting to dislike MSC's online catalog more and more everytime I try to look something like knurl rollers up on it.
DA
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(12-18-2012, 10:33 PM)dallen Wrote: I think I am getting to dislike MSC's online catalog more and more everytime I try to look something like knurl rollers up on it.
DA
I've never liked their web site. They keep sending me emails to come and see their new and improved web site but it always looks the same to me. Not the worst, but certainly could be improved.
Ed
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At least you can see it. I'm greeted by a message that reads: "www1.mscdirect.com is not currently available for your use."
This is because my IP address is outside the US. Talk about IP address snobbery!
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