dalee, we ALWAYS buy things we don't need "Right now",, because we KNOW that in the future we will have that needed piece in stock, when the opportunity arises. Lol
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
Have you tried pressing out the pins yet to replace the knurl wheels? I'm curious how easy/difficult that is.
Re making a clone. I have this Eagle Rock scissor type knurler. It works pretty well, but I find removing the pins to replace wheels to be a royal pain. They are a real tight interference fit. I dont have a press, but I think thats whats required. After some hard whacks with a punch, I concluded it wasnt going anywhere... so thus far, all my knurls have the same pattern Once upon a time I drew up a dedicated mini-screw jack tool that might do the trick, but have not gotten around to it yet.
Anyway, if I ever make a new knurling tool, I would use shoulder bolts (I think thats what they are called). The ones with hardend & ground shaft part but threaded on the end so they can just be unscrewed.
petertha, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
The pins come out of mine with just a punch and a hammer. I still have several sets of holders with different knurls in them just because it's quicker to swap them out that way than to mess with the pins.
Once you get the pins out, just lap the holes a little larger until the pins come out easier. Shoulder bolts would probably be ok if all you did was fine pitch knurling, but coarser pitches would likely shear off the threaded end where it's undercut from the increased pressure. Besides, shoulder bolts are not likely to be as hard as knurl pins
FWIW, The pins on all the Hardinge and Accutrak knurling tools I've used over the years were solid carbide and they always slid right out after loosening the set screw.
(11-11-2012, 08:28 PM)TomG Wrote: Shoulder bolts would probably be ok if all you did was fine pitch knurling, but coarser pitches would likely shear off the threaded end where it's undercut from the increased pressure.
One could use shoulder bolts with a long enough shoulder to enter a counterbore on the threaded side of the knurling tool.
(11-11-2012, 08:28 PM)TomG Wrote: Besides, shoulder bolts are not likely to be as hard as knurl pins
Tom
someone was going to make one of these, did they????, if so did it work?????, Cause I got and idea, more brain fart then idea but I'm gonna make a pattern to cast the frame for one. anyway I hope to make a pattern to cast one from. my woodworking skills well lets not call em skills
DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
(12-10-2012, 05:35 PM)dallen Wrote: someone was going to make one of these, did they????, if so did it work?????, Cause I got and idea, more brain fart then idea but I'm gonna make a pattern to cast the frame for one. anyway I hope to make a pattern to cast one from. my woodworking skills well lets not call em skills
DA
Oh boy, you just set yourself up. I see another project thread coming from David.
12-10-2012, 07:07 PM (This post was last modified: 12-10-2012, 07:08 PM by dallen.)
only if someone tells me how big the frame is, and I had another brain fart a bit ago of why not just make the whole thing one casting then all I gotta do is drill some hole and mill a couple slots
anyway I'm tired of casting trigger guards, you want to see what it went on??
DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
no not really but had to throw in a little suspense.
made from scratch just like my mommas biscuits, out of a hand full of bits and pieces that were laying about the house. I did have to buy four or five screws, the barrel was a stub that was given to me.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.