Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[Mayhem]

Well I have been busy with a number if other things that keep cropping up, such as a sagging gate, rusted out post etc, so I haven't done much on the mill for some time.

The reverse trip ball lever is still firmly wedged in place but moves just enough to taunt me. It appears to be made of brass, so the spot welder idea isn't going to fly. Pity, as that one would have probably done it.

So, I cleared the bench and unrolled a large scale printout of the drawing for the head that I had printed on several sheets of A3 paper and than cut and pieced together with sticky tape. The final result was a 1160mm (46") x 970mm (39") drawing. Even at this size, some of the parts weren't all that clear, as the various types of cross-hatch and call out lines often blurred.

I then proceed to work around each of the individual parts on each drawing in a clockwise direction, highlighting the parts that are either missing, or in need of repair/replacement. I did take some pictures of the end result but left the camera in the shop (OK, let the abuse begin!).

The end result was 79 items (three were not on the parts list!) but I have not gone through and looked at what needs to be ordered from Kondia and what I can substitute (E clips, roll pins, screws etc) just yet. It took me a while, but I figured out that what Kondia call an "elastic ring" is in fact an E clip, and an "elastic pin" is a roll pin. Boy, was I confused at first!

The other thing I noticed (and this goes for automotive manuals) is that when you cannot think of a specific name for something, call it special! The head has 5 special setscrews, 2 special keys, 2 special washers, 1 special pin and 1 Allen special screw.

[stevec]

(10-07-2012, 06:32 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Well I have been busy with a number if other things that keep cropping up, such as a sagging gate, rusted out post etc,

I know what ya mean Darren I too, suffer from the above (as far as I know my etc. is still OK) but I would've thought you were too young for those kinda ailments.

Seriously, I think you're getting a handle on it, keep up the progress reports.

[EdK]

Darren,

That's one "special" mill you've got there.

Ed

[Rickabilly]

Actually Darren, Brass may be easier, we are headed into Bob's territory here but take a piece of brass rod grind the end flat tin it with soft solder, clean the ball up as best you can, I guess with all the wd40 and air that you've blown through it, it's pretty clean by now, paint some flux on the ball, hold the brass rod against the ball, with something that is heat resistant and then hold a propane torch on the rod as close to the soldered end as you can get without causing damage, after the solder melts it will start to remote heat the ball and hopefully enough heat will get across that the rod becomes soldered to the ball, and it can be pulled out, the big risk here is heat sinking into the main body.

Another idea if you have a pretty close idea of the ball diameter is to form turn a concave end on a rod and use some Cyano-acrylate glue to stick the rod to the ball, the risk being that you could accidentally glue the ball in place, but if you did that you could drill and tap a tiny hole in the ball now that it won't spin.

So there you go, just when you thought we were all out of ideas.

Regards
Rick

[Mayhem]

Thanks Rick - I'll give them a go.

Ed - I'm assuming you mean 'lick the windows on the school bus' special and not the good kind!

[EdK]

(10-08-2012, 06:04 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Ed - I'm assuming you mean 'lick the windows on the school bus' special and not the good kind!

Since it has so many special parts it must be a special mill.

Ed

[TomG]

Hey Darren,

I sent you a PM WAY back in July about how to get that thing apart. Is that one of the PM's that you managed to delete?

That hole that showing in the pics you took is tapped #6-40. The technique for removing it is to screw a #6-40 screw into the hole and wiggle the lever while pulling the thing out. I didn't realize you were still fighting this battle or I could have shown you how do do it during your visit.

Unfortunately, there are no metric screws even close to that size. I suppose I could send you one. It probably wouldn't cost more than $20 or $30 for shipping.

Tom

[Mayhem]

Thanks Tom - I did try your method but I cannot screw anything into it, as it rotates. To be perfectly honest, I don't actually see any threads in there either. I also tried using an E-Z-out but encountered the same problems.

[TomG]

(10-08-2012, 07:13 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Thanks Tom - I did try your method but I cannot screw anything into it, as it rotates. To be perfectly honest, I don't actually see any threads in there either. I also tried using an E-Z-out but encountered the same problems.

Hmmm. It looks so similar to the Bridgeport design, I can't imagine it would be done any differently. I guess the mystery continues.

Tom

[Mayhem]

I agree Tom. Perhaps the ogre who broke the quill feed handle off, broke many other things and botched up the wiring stripped the threads from that as well!