+- MetalworkingFun Forum (http://www.metalworkingfun.com)
+-- Forum: Machining (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-5.html)
+--- Forum: Projects (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-7.html)
+--- Thread: Shingle Mill Build (/thread-572.html)
Shingle Mill Build - f350ca - 06-29-2012
Started building another one of those things I decided I couldn't live without. This time its a shingle cutting attachment for the sawmill. Planning on finally siding the shop with you guessed it, wooden shingles. Haven't attempted to calculate how many million shingles it will take but I'm certain my ADD will kick in before I'm done.
I re-entered the modern world and got a cell phone again, haven't had one since I quit work 10 years ago. This one has a camera so we'll try a build log if anyones interested. Usually never have the camera in the shop.
Started building the clamps that will hold the blocks. These parts will slide on two rods to clamp the block.
![[Image: IMG_0048.jpg]](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HxJ2DQU58X8/T-5aH6HXhII/AAAAAAAAAa0/4OHmB9G8nZI/s1280/IMG_0048.jpg)
A cam will push the slider and attached cutting edge into the block. Due to lack of clearance I needed a socket to use a 1/2 inch strong arm in to rotate the cam.
![[Image: IMG_0049.jpg]](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XeC60yJdTXo/T-5aHNz7NwI/AAAAAAAAAao/0Uw8iUVIQis/s1280/IMG_0049.jpg)
The cam is a chunk of 2 inch rod with a .3 offset to give .6 inch movement.
![[Image: IMG_0050.jpg]](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YCHt-se05Oc/T-5aHrIRSxI/AAAAAAAAAaw/C2pxRzm3cYg/s1280/IMG_0050.jpg)
Assembled, the cam acts against the rod which will push on springs to keep it tight.
![[Image: IMG_0052.jpg]](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WoyDh5bZ50A/T-5aIi1swyI/AAAAAAAAAbA/POkbT6ihnT4/s1280/IMG_0052.jpg)
More to follow as the design evolves.
RE: Shingle Mill Build - f350ca - 08-28-2012
This project has been shelved too long. Got back making parts today. The plan is to cut four shingles at a time so its four times the parts to make, my ADD is acting up.
Needed to make cutting edges to dig into the blocks, was all set to cut them on the mill and realized it was a perfect operation for the shaper.
![[Image: IMG_0131.jpg]](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mozl9aKwKmw/UD1saLroNaI/AAAAAAAAAfo/Trwb5Qk38yo/s1280/IMG_0131.jpg)
Cutting edge installed on the part that will clamp the cedar block.
![[Image: IMG_0132.jpg]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MVz_37AWnVE/UD1sZyNeb6I/AAAAAAAAAfs/8g1gR-b8Okw/s1280/IMG_0132.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0133.jpg]](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kdZlteu-cVU/UD1sZ2ST1dI/AAAAAAAAAfk/tbnJWmVplwI/s1280/IMG_0133.jpg)
More to follow
RE: Shingle Mill Build - SnailPowered - 08-29-2012
This is awesome. Can't wait to see some pictures of the mill in action. Wood shingles sure do look nice!
RE: Shingle Mill Build - EdK - 08-29-2012
Interesting.
RE: Shingle Mill Build - sasquatch - 08-29-2012
Neat project Greg, very interesting, looking forward to the follow ups!!
RE: Shingle Mill Build - DaveH - 08-30-2012
Wow - neat project Greg
Good stuff 
DaveH
RE: Shingle Mill Build - stevec - 08-30-2012
I love your shop shots Greg, it feels like home, pandemonium. I sometimes wonder if I would be more efficient if I were neater and put things away after use (turn head and spit!). Your admirable level of efficiency tells me to continue in my cluttered ways!
RE: Shingle Mill Build - f350ca - 08-30-2012
A clean shop is the sign of idle hands. No seriously i figure if there is enough mess and you don't put things away eventually the tool or piece of metal you need will be at hand.
On the design side.
I'd hoped to cut the shingles down the grain rather than across. When your sawing lumber the blade travels across the grain and shears the wood fibbers. By turning the 16 inch block across the bed the blade would travel with the fibbers and leave a smoother surface which would be more rot resistant, similar to split shakes.
DOESN"T WORK.
I screwed two blocks to a couple of 2 x 4 s that I could hold in the log bunks. No taper but good enough for a test.
The saw produces shavings of incredible length that stick to the blade and travel around to the feed side. I'd have the easter egg packing market cornered, but think thats too seasonal. The shavings had the guards packed and the guides jammed in about 10 cuts. Time to go for design 2. Cut the blocks across the grain. Figured if I'd stayed with plan 1 I'd have a pile of shavings the size of the shop by the time I had the shingles cut to side it.
Still making parts, will post photos when something looks more complete.
RE: Shingle Mill Build - stevec - 08-31-2012
(08-30-2012, 09:49 PM)f350ca Wrote: On the design side.I may be missing something here (hard to believe, huh?) but isn't most , if not all, of the sawing being done on your mill happen WITH the grain of the wood? I can't picture shingles with the flat surfaces being endgrain.
I'd hoped to cut the shingles down the grain rather than across. When your sawing lumber the blade travels across the grain and shears the wood fibbers. By turning the 16 inch block across the bed the blade would travel with the fibbers and leave a smoother surface which would be more rot resistant, similar to split shakes.
DOESN"T WORK.
RE: Shingle Mill Build - f350ca - 08-31-2012
Steve
When the band cuts the log the blade travels across the grain (not through it), what I was hoping to do was cut down the grain of the block. Wish I knew hole to post a sketch. Say the shingle is 6 inches wide by 16 long, the band normally cuts across the 6 inch width, I was hoping to turn the block and drag the blade down the 16 inch length of the block and follow the grain.
Hope that makes sense, I've still only had one coffee.