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+--- Thread: Spindle Crank (/thread-1896.html)
Spindle Crank - Hawkeye - 12-15-2013
When I'm threading a short section to a shoulder, I like to turn the spindle by hand. It's easier to use a handle at the outboard end, rather than use a chuck key or wrench to turn the chuck. I have one I made for the 9" Hercus lathe, so a big one of the same design makes sense for the Storebro lathe.
The handle locks into the spindle in the same way that bicycle handlebars join the fork tube. A long wedge of tubing jams against the main tube and the sides of the spindle.
[attachment=7407]
[attachment=7408]
To use, insert the tube into the end of the spindle and tighten the nut. If collets are being used with a drawbar, it can be inserted through the centre of the crank.
[attachment=7409]
I made the handle 14" long because that is the maximum diameter I can turn over the toes of the carriage. I have to admit, it's quite a step up to have a chuck that's 10 5/8" in diameter.
[attachment=7410]
RE: Spindle Crank - Mayhem - 12-15-2013
Nice Mike - If you twist the handles slightly you can keep cool whilst using the lathe under power
What is the distance between the end of the spindle to the front of the chuck? It looks a decent distance in the pictures.
RE: Spindle Crank - Hawkeye - 12-16-2013
With a 14" bar, it would pull the lathe across the floor.
The chuck body is only 3" from the back plate.
RE: Spindle Crank - Mayhem - 12-16-2013
Sorry Mike - I meant from the rear of the spindle (i.e. where the handle will be used). Just wondering how easy it will be to turn and still keep an eye on things.
RE: Spindle Crank - Hawkeye - 12-17-2013
Yeah. It is a bit of a distance. Not quite as easy to reach as on the Hercus. It does have it's uses, though. When I had the chuck off, I used it to check the runout on the inside of the spindle. Pretty hard to turn slowly without the crank.