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+--- Thread: Spindexer Improvement (/thread-1430.html)
Spindexer Improvement - Highpower - 06-16-2013
There have been a number of posts on several different forums that show how to go about squaring up the base on a typical import 5-C "Spindexer" to the center line of it's bore. This makes it much easier to align the tool with the table travel of your machine. Or you can simply clamp it into your machine vice and be ready to go. (Assuming your vice is already indicated inline.)
[attachment=5506]
Here is but one way of going about it, as an example:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1427.0
This is only about how I went about setting up my own spindex in my mill to machine the sides of the base. Do a Google search and you'll find other ways of building a better mousetrap, I'm sure.
The painted sides of the base obviously need to go.
[attachment=5507]
I mounted my ground lathe test bar between centers and adjusted it until a DTI showed no deflection in either the X or Z axis.
[attachment=5508]
Then I removed the test bar from the centers and installed it in the spindex with the proper 5-C collet. I also made a bushing to fit between the back end of the test bar and the spindle bore to keep it centered. Put the bar and spindex back between the centers with the base plate UP.
I supported the body of the spindex with a machinist jack and leveled the bottom of the base before clamping it down. Run a DTI over the base plate until it shows level. That will keep the cuts on the sides of the base square to the bottom of the base. A few light cuts on the sides will remove the paint and Bondo and square them up to the bore center line.
[attachment=5509]
I spent the greatest amount of time adjusting the screw jack and hold down clamps to get the base secured to the machine table without putting the spindex spindle in a bind. I had to keep going back and forth between the screw jack underneath and the two clamps above. A little too much pressure from any one of them and the spindle would start to bind. I just kept at it until everything was tight and the spindle turned freely. Another check with the DTI verified that the base remained level.
[attachment=5510]
It turned out the bottom of the base and the front surface were already true to the spindle. The sides of the base were tapered however and had a lot more "Bondo" on them than I expected. After the layer of filler had been removed, the base was still wider at the front than in the rear. But after a few light cuts on the sides, a machinists square told me I was good to go. Good enough for Government work anyway, as they say.
An hour's worth of set-up time to make a couple of cuts that takes 5 minutes to do.
RE: Spindexer Improvement - Mayhem - 06-17-2013
Nice work Willie
RE: Spindexer Improvement - EdK - 06-17-2013
I'll have to look at one of the other methods since I don't own a test bar or dividing head. Thanks for the write-up though. It gives me an idea of what's involved in getting the sides parallel with the spindle axis.
Ed
EDIT: thanks for the link to modelenginemaker. That shows a way to do it with tools I have available.
RE: Spindexer Improvement - stevec - 06-17-2013
Great write up of your procedure Willie.
I'm a little confused about-
(06-16-2013, 11:54 PM)Highpower Wrote: I also made a bushing to fit between the back end of the test bar and the spindle bore to keep it centered. Put the bar and spindex back between the centers with the base plate UP.
If you made a bushing to fit between the spindle bore and test bar, how did you tighten the collet with the collet closer?
Or have I totally misunderstood.
RE: Spindexer Improvement - Highpower - 06-17-2013
(06-17-2013, 05:49 AM)EdK Wrote: EDIT: thanks for the link to modelenginemaker. That shows a way to do it with tools I have available.
That is why I suggested a Google search Ed. I'm sure there are plenty of different ways to skin that cat....... errrrrrr, spindexer.
It's funny, because that post on modelenginemaker is what prompted me to square up the sides on my own spindex. But at the time, I didn't have a piece of round bar big enough to pass through the spindle to clamp it down like that. So I had to use what I had on hand and came up with my own "Rube Goldberg" set-up instead.
RE: Spindexer Improvement - EdK - 06-17-2013
(06-17-2013, 08:38 AM)Highpower Wrote:(06-17-2013, 05:49 AM)EdK Wrote: EDIT: thanks for the link to modelenginemaker. That shows a way to do it with tools I have available.
That is why I suggested a Google search Ed. I'm sure there are plenty of different ways to skin that cat....... errrrrrr, spindexer.
It's funny, because that post on modelenginemaker is what prompted me to square up the sides on my own spindex. But at the time, I didn't have a piece of round bar big enough to pass through the spindle to clamp it down like that. So I had to use what I had on hand and came up with my own "Rube Goldberg" set-up instead.
I did do the Google thing but only came up with this one, which is not as good as the one you linked to.
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=88211
Thanks again.
Ed
RE: Spindexer Improvement - Highpower - 06-17-2013
(06-17-2013, 05:55 AM)stevec Wrote: Great write up of your procedure Willie.
I'm a little confused about-
(06-16-2013, 11:54 PM)Highpower Wrote: I also made a bushing to fit between the back end of the test bar and the spindle bore to keep it centered. Put the bar and spindex back between the centers with the base plate UP.
If you made a bushing to fit between the spindle bore and test bar, how did you tighten the collet with the collet closer?
Or have I totally misunderstood.
Sorry Steve, that was a poor description. I don't speak well English a lot of the time.
What I should have said, was a sleeve that slid over the OD of the test bar, and into the ID of the collet closer tube. You can't see it in the picture because I accidentally pushed it in too far, and I didn't want to tear down the whole set-up again to fish it back out again.
I hope that makes more sense.
It was just a filler piece to help keep the test bar centered in the back end. Probably not very accurate, but it prevented any major movement between the bar and the tube and it worked well enough for my amateur needs.
RE: Spindexer Improvement - Highpower - 06-17-2013
(06-17-2013, 08:45 AM)EdK Wrote: I did do the Google thing but only came up with this one, which is not as good as the one you linked to.
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=88211
Thanks again.
Ed
You need to work on your Google'Fu Ed.
Here is another one: http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=92143
RE: Spindexer Improvement - DaveH - 06-17-2013
Willie,
Very nicely shown
DaveH