Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild

Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - Printable Version

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RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - turbo711 - 07-12-2015

Yes Edk, that is how it supposed to be, but if I put it there, it won't even be on the corresponding apron gear. I think my apron is different than yours. My leadscrew has 2 holes in it like they tried to put it there, but it didn't work so they drilled another hole. There is also a threaded setscrew hole for a shaft, drilled too close to the edge of the casting in the threading gearbox, like someone made a mistake, then they drilled another hole correctly. Maybe this a early run lathe where they didn't have the production down pat. I don't know. Furthermore, the apron can be moved around on it's two 8mm mounting bolts around .100" before tightening; not too confidence inspiring. But that's the way it worked before so I hope it will be okay. It seems like a lot of weight to be hanging from those bolts.
I want the gear to be backed up by the shoulder of the shaft, that's why I changed your drawing to work. I placed the gear so it would mesh roughly in the center with it's mate and the apron roughly centered on it's bolts. I then removed it and measured between the gear and the existing shoulder and there was a gap of .700". Luckily, the leadscrew gear teeth are much wider than the apron gear, so the alignment doesn't have to be dead on. After I get the parts, I can machine a spacer to take up the slack between the thrust washer and crank wheel housing.This should be around .100".

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - johnnyc14 - 07-12-2015

I think before you tighten the apron bolts it would be a good idea to position the apron as close to the headstock end as possible and engage the 1/2 nuts onto the lead screw to ensure best alignment possible since there is some looseness in the bolt holes.

John

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - turbo711 - 07-13-2015

That sounds like an excellent idea John. Any other assembly ideas are welcome. I have never owned a lathe before.
Mark

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - EdK - 07-13-2015

Here you go Mark.

Just an FYI, that internal thread on the back end of the lead screw is for attaching a washer to prevent you from advancing the cross slide so far that the nut disengages from the lead screw.

Ed

[attachment=11346]

[attachment=11347]
[attachment=11348]

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - turbo711 - 07-14-2015

Thanks very much for the drawings Ed. I seem to be missing that bolt and washer. Its good to know what it's for.
In the meantime I thought I would throw a coat of paint on the base to give it a chance to harden a little while I tend
to going over some more parts...

[Image: strippedBase.jpg?dl=0]

That's it for now, I have some 12 hour nights to deal with.

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - turbo711 - 07-17-2015

Well I had a chance to do some more on the lathe. This time, the tailstock. I would consider it's condition to be bad. This must be one of those models that has a tailstock/anvil option where you can drill/center parts, but also hammer out a horseshoe on it if you need to...

[Image: tailstock.jpg?dl=0]

There are cracks on both sides where the side adjustment bolts are as well as the center of the back. I ordered a product called EZ weld tig wire, specifically designed to weld cast iron. I thought I would start at the back because it is easily accessible.

[Image: rearCrack.jpg?dl=0]

The only thing that worked well is this diamond grinding/cutoff disk from banggood. Cheap and good; rare these days. Anyway, I "welded" the crack from both sides and also welded some parts on the forward/off/reverse lever to tighten it up a bit
.

[Image: PrettyOnTheOutside.jpg?dl=0]

See how pretty it looks. Now grind it. Mr. Tig doesn't show you that part...

[Image: SwitchLeverAssyGround.jpg?dl=0]

In the case of the switch casting, I think it will be okay, and the holes will hold more oil!
But, I think I will leave the bolt hole cracks alone, because it is a difficult area and the "welds" are sponge toffee.

[Image: CrackedCenteringHoles.jpg?dl=0]

Here is a way to remove those little hammer rivets:

[Image: LabelPinRemovalMethod.jpg?dl=0]

And the same method for a broken stop pin:

[Image: brokenLockStopPin.jpg?dl=0]

And here are some more issues with the anvil...
A worn quill slide...

[Image: quillSlide.jpg?dl=0]

Welded lever...

[Image: tailStockLock.jpg?dl=0]

This won't affect operation, but look at the quality of the cam casting...

[Image: poorCamCasting.jpg?dl=0]

There is also a missing gib although I think it is just square stock instead of tapered in this case. I would say the tailstock is in poor condition to say the least, but due to the costs adding up, I will not be replacing it.

I also worked on the headstock. But before I did, I had to contend with the Medusa...

[Image: wiring.jpg?dl=0]

Which isn't as bad as it looks. I think only the 3 contactors will need to be replaced. The transformer, thermal overload relay, and all the fuse blocks look okay. The insulating base plate and box are a different story.

Here are some pics.

[Image: front.jpg?dl=0]

Production shortcut (not machining middle holes in lid).

[Image: production%20Shortcut.jpg?dl=0]

And the bad news is the gears that the speed (1350rpm) was left on for 16 years are chewed.

[Image: chewedGears.jpg?dl=0]

Everything else seems to be okay including the spindle and bearings.

[Image: spindleBearing.jpg?dl=0]

Now I have to locate contactors and gears. I could throw it back together and listen to the humming, or choose a different speed, but it would always be a splinter in my mind driving me mad...
That's all for now.

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - dallen - 07-17-2015

heat the castings until all the oil burns out before you weld on them.

are the contactors in youa medusa 24 volt on the coils? I just ordered one for a friend. it came from China but for 25 bucks and I think it had free shipping. If you want it I can look the seller up and send you a link

I have a brand new tailstock quill for a grizzly lathe that has a MT#3 taper in it, I can't use it, bought it thinking/hoping that they would interchange, we can do a deal on it if it measures the same as yours

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - turbo711 - 07-17-2015

Hello Dallen. Yes, they are 24V I think. The transformer indicates 24V output. The link(s) would be welcomed. Here is a pic from Johnnyc14 that shows how it supposed to look:

[Image: original%20wiring.JPG?dl=0]

I might be interested in the quill, but I don't want to put much money in this tailstock due to it's condition. I was thinking of milling the slot wider and making a new pin. My mill in a homemade cnc router though and it doesn't like steel too much...

Mark

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - dallen - 07-17-2015

no problem on the quill

here's the ebay auction number for the relay

181594962686

and the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181594962686?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

hope it helps out

RE: Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild - EdK - 07-17-2015

Here's an exact replacement for the contactor on the right. It has a normally open auxiliary contact. The two on the left have normally closed auxiliary contacts.

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/TECO-N-series-IEC-Contactors-6-to-180A/CU-16-B6.html

They also carry the thermal overload relays.

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/TECO-N-series-IEC-Thermal-Overloads-0-45-to-180A/

Hope this helps some.

Ed