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[PROJECT] Clamp Knurling Tool - Printable Version

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RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - EdK - 01-01-2015

(01-01-2015, 08:01 PM)Mayhem Wrote: What became of your inquiries with that company in China?

After Arvid's nightmare experience he had importing his mill from China, I got cold feet and decided to not go that route. I'm now looking at this one to purchase sometime in the future.

http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM-935HighPrecisionMills.html

Ed


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - Mayhem - 01-01-2015

Nice looking mill Ed. I wasn't aware that Arvid had issues with his but I have hijacked your thread enough.


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - stevec - 01-02-2015

Ed,

Back in my reply (post#8) I wrote "The radius of the flycutter tool tip is much greater and so will show the "out of tram" condition much clearer."
I don't know why I wrote it that way, it sounds like I was talking about the radius of the tip of the cutting tool in the flycutter.
What I meant was the diameter of the cut the flycutter sweep or path is much greater than that of the endmill.

I don't know what size the endmill you used was but I'm thinking if the endmill was 1/2" and the diameter (cut circle) of the flycutter was 2"  any "out of tram" condition will show up much more with the fly cutter.
Is that any clearer? 17428

Steve
Smiley-eatdrink004


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - Arbalest - 01-02-2015

I had a tough time explaining how I use my Fly cutter. When the head is vertical you get cutting marks on both the forward and trailing cut. This produces a cross hatch effect that I just don't like. If possible I extend the Fly cutter so it's only cutting on the forward stroke so to speak. Obviously you can't do this with large work pieces unless you're using a very large swing.


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - EdK - 01-02-2015

(01-02-2015, 08:17 AM)stevec Wrote: Ed,

Back in my reply (post#8) I wrote "The radius of the flycutter tool tip is much greater and so will show the "out of tram" condition much clearer."
I don't know why I wrote it that way, it sounds like I was talking about the radius of the tip of the cutting tool in the flycutter.
What I meant was the diameter of the cut the flycutter sweep or path is much greater than that of the endmill.

I don't know what size the endmill you used was but I'm thinking if the endmill was 1/2" and the diameter (cut circle) of the flycutter was 2"  any "out of tram" condition will show up much more with the fly cutter.
Is that any clearer? 17428

Steve
Smiley-eatdrink004

Yes, but your original post was clear also. At least I interpreted it as you just explained above and it made sense.

Ed


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - EdK - 01-02-2015

(01-02-2015, 09:33 AM)Arbalest Wrote: ...If possible I extend the Fly cutter so it's only cutting on the forward stroke so to speak...

The only way to do that is to tilt the head and then you end up with a scooped surface, not a flat one. 17428

Ed


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - Highpower - 01-02-2015

That was my thought as well. I've been told the cross hatch tells you that the part is flat, rather than concave. And your mill head is in tram...  Smile

[Image: P7280087.jpg]


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - Arbalest - 01-02-2015

As I said, it's difficult to explain so folks have trouble understanding...

First off the head is vertical. If I put a piece of work in the vice and go right across it with the flycutter I get a cross hatch finish as in the picture above. Yes, this does prove the head is vertical. Provided I stop traversing the table though before the axis of the quill goes over the edge of the work then it only cuts in the "forward" stroke. This gives a nicer looking finish. The head hasn't moved, it's still vertical and the surface of the workpiece is flat.

Sorry I can't explain it any better. I could do a video but I guess some folks still wouldn't get it.

I actually milled a block yesterday like this. It ended up 60 x 50 x 40mm. The toolbit of the Flycutter was extended about 50mm so total swing is 100mm.


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - the penguin - 01-02-2015

It looks like he stopped the cutting before the cutter touched the other end of the material. if you have a 7" cutting diameter and only a 6" long piece of material, you could get that pattern, if you stop before the cutter touches the material on the other side of the cutter's diameter. I hope that makes sense.

I've never used a fly cutter, I've always used a face mill, I have a nice Walter F4041, that Ken helped me get.


RE: Clamp Knurling Tool - EdK - 01-02-2015

(01-02-2015, 12:57 PM)the penguin Wrote: It looks like he stopped the cutting before the cutter touched the other end of the material. if you have a 7" cutting diameter and only a 6" long piece of material, you could get that pattern, if you stop before the cutter touches the material on the other side of the cutter's diameter.  I hope that makes sense.

I've never used a fly cutter, I've always used a face mill, I have a nice Walter F4041, that Ken helped me get.

Jack,

If you're talking about my picture, I did traverse the entire length until the trailing sweep of the cutter cleared the workpiece. It cut on both the leading sweep and the trailing sweep. I'm not sure why I didn't get the crosshatch pattern though. I'll save that mystery for another day.

Oh, and I got that same face mill from Ken but unfortunately my mill doesn't like it. Sadno

Ed