Log Splitter - Printable Version +- MetalworkingFun Forum (http://www.metalworkingfun.com) +-- Forum: Machining (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-5.html) +--- Forum: Projects (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-7.html) +--- Thread: Log Splitter (/thread-2109.html) |
RE: Log Splitter - Mayhem - 02-10-2015 Dave - once you get the logs that small, would they just fit into your fire without splitting again? RE: Log Splitter - arvidj - 02-10-2015 (02-09-2015, 05:42 PM)f350ca Wrote: Dave, if your looking at making an impulse splitter, go big or go home. That looks to be rather old. I am assuming the the "OSHA Approved" sticker wore off years ago RE: Log Splitter - vtsteam - 02-11-2015 I wish 10 cords was that size, too. I think there ought to be a kitchen version for making carrot sticks. And if a guy wanted to go into the match business, a little phosphorus dip and well, there you go...... RE: Log Splitter - vtsteam - 02-11-2015 This one is kinda interesting; Inotice towards the end of the video, it was made by American Sawmill Machinery Co. I used to own a big 28" cast iron bandsaw made by them back in the 70's when I was a boatbuider. RE: Log Splitter - stevec - 02-11-2015 I couldn't watch it all. It was too painful. Steve RE: Log Splitter - DaveH - 02-11-2015 I've cut the I-beam to length and cut the other slot. [attachment=10030] DaveH RE: Log Splitter - DaveH - 02-11-2015 I'm at the point of doing some welding So I need some help please guys. There are numbers on the drawing to show the positions of where to weld first if necessary [attachment=10031] [attachment=10032] DaveH RE: Log Splitter - f350ca - 02-11-2015 Id tac it at 1 and 10 both sides then weld the web in. Tac at 6 and weld from 8 back to 6. Probably do both sides. That should stop any twisting and not build in stress. Then wield from 6 to 4 and then the other side. 8 to 9 both sides then top it off now that your practised with the weld that will show from 3 to 1. In this sequence your welding to an outside edge and not building in stress as the weld cools. Probably better ways but thats how I'd tackle it. And weld hot, don't be afraid of the power bill, use up them watts. if you burn through once in a while your almost hot enough. RE: Log Splitter - DaveH - 02-11-2015 Thanks Greg, that's great Where do I aim more at the thicker piece ? DaveH RE: Log Splitter - f350ca - 02-11-2015 Hoped we'd get a few more opinions. Yes the wedge and anchor will take a lot more heat. On something like that I'd weave a U shaped pattern, start on the thin metal then move over to the heavy making the u to move forward, move over the u slower then out onto the beam and right back onto the heavy part to focus the heat there. With 1/8 rod at 110 to 120 amp, (recommended is probably 90 amp) weave a pattern about 3/8th wide, moving forward maybe an 1/8th of an inch at a time. You should be melting back into the pass behind the weave a little each time, laying the beads beside each other leaves a rough surface. Doing it this way with 7018 (if your welder is DC) should have the slag almost curl of behind as you go. Think thats how I'd do it, I weld more by feel (gets hot some times) |