+- MetalworkingFun Forum (http://www.metalworkingfun.com)
+-- Forum: Machining (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-5.html)
+--- Forum: Projects (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-7.html)
+--- Thread: Todays Project - What did you do today? (/thread-727.html)
Pages:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
534
535
536
537
538
539
540
541
542
543
544
545
546
547
548
549
550
551
552
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - Mayhem - 11-21-2014
The second ground lead also looks to be holding on by crimped insulation! If it were me I would check them all.
I think you are on the right track regarding the safety switches. I'd isolate each and test it or short them out (assuming they are standard NO switches). However, this is just me and I'm not advocating that others work on power circuits (you know, the usual legal/safety stuff).
Actually - forget everything I have said and call the company back up and tell them what you have found and ask (demand) that they fix it. Tell them that you are concerned for your personal safety and how your wife would kill you if your house caught fire due to their shoddy wiring.
Either way - I would take the time to map the wires out and complete the incomplete wiring diagram, just in case you need to consult it again into the future.
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - EdK - 11-21-2014
Those are some $hitty crimps. Also, they should be using either ring terminals or the locking type spade terminal. Especially on the high voltage wiring. Any chance of you taking a picture of the wiring diagram and posting it? I'm guessing it's probably like the one in my lathe manual, and I use that term lightly. Mine doesn't have a wiring diagram but what's called a ladder diagram which is intended to show current flow and not necessarily how it's wired up.Here's a reasonably decent, brief description of the differences between a ladder diagram and a wiring diagram, if anyone is interested.
http://www.automatedbuildings.com/news/sep12/columns/120823095909calabrese.html
Ed
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - TomG - 11-21-2014
In my opinion, the crimp is just to hold the wire in place for soldering.
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - stevec - 11-21-2014
Tom, I may have misunderstood you but if one were to crimp the extended plastic insulation and then try to solder the connector and wire, the plastic would melt and create a sloppy mess of goo.
Crimp fittings are solderless and work fine, provided they are crimped properly and not like the ones shown in Arvid's pics.
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - TomG - 11-21-2014
You can solder the insulated ones Steve but it just takes a big iron or a torch so you can solder them quick before it makes a mess. I prefer to use the bare ones and insulate with shrink tubing if necessary, like I did on the controller for my anodizing bench.
Tom
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - EdK - 11-21-2014
Soldering crimped terminals that use stranded wire is a big no-no in the electronics field. The stranded wire needs to remain flexible otherwise it will break easier and by soldering it you make the stranded wire into a solid wire and it can't handle much flexing and will likely break.
Ed
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - Will_D - 11-22-2014
The safety circuit may also involve the chuck key being in its holder?
In Aerospace, connections are always crimped never ever soldered.
Re the ladder diagram link: Amazing that an article on diagrams doesn't include any!!
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - dallen - 11-22-2014
(11-21-2014, 06:08 PM)TomG Wrote: You can solder the insulated ones Steve but it just takes a big iron or a torch so you can solder them quick before it makes a mess. I prefer to use the bare ones and insulate with shrink tubing if necessary, like I did on the controller for my anodizing bench.
Tom
trick to crimping the terminals is to throw the parts store crimper/strippers away and get yourself a damn good pair of Sta-Con crimpers made for the terminals that you use.
![[Image: 272X190_PLI.jpg]](http://www.specialized.net/Specialized//Assets/ProductImages/272X190_PLI.jpg)
they make them for both insulated and uninsulated
I carried a pair like the ones in the photo for close to 20 years without wearing them out of the joint springing, still have em
DA
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - Hopefuldave - 11-22-2014
In England, we call those "bodger's crimps", you can't inspect.them properly and most get crimped with sidecutters so they're halfway cut through the ferrule and all the way through the insulation...
Bare terminals, ratchet crimpers (I have a whole toolbox full, upwards of a dozen for different terminals) and clear slide-on boots is the way to go :-)
RE: Todays Project - What did you do today? - arvidj - 11-22-2014
It runs!!
An email from Matt suggested the following:
- Check the gear cover safety switch ... if the lathe has one ... he could not remember.
- Check the foot brake switch.
- Check the spindle shield switch.
I removed a cover an started with the foot brake switch.
[attachment=9552]
[attachment=9553]
Upon inspection ... a task that does not seem to be in the manufacturer's repertoire] ... I found that the switch would close only about 40% of the time the foot brake was released. "Well just turn the bolt and re-adjust the Allen bolt." As I put a wrench on the lock nut the bolt and nut fell out of the doughnut. They were lucky it worked even 40% of the time as the bolt was not even screwed in and there was only one bolt thread sticking out of past the lock nut.
I loosened up the set screw on the doughnut and pulled the doughnut off the shaft. Next was to actually screw the Allen bolt into the doughnut and lock it down. Finally re-install the doughnut on the shaft, adjust it so the Allen bolt would close the switch and then tightened the doughnut set screw.
Plugged it back in and the spindle rotates. A sigh of relief and Bev is no longer wondering if I had made a mistake.
On to mounting the DRO head to the top of the lathe. Removed the DRO from the box and ... what is that noise? Turn the DRO head in any direction and something inside the head would rattle inside the case to what I am assuming is the low spot.
Oh Darn!! [this is a family board so ...]
I will give Matt at Precisions Mathews credit in that he does answer his emails on Saturdays and does agree to reasonable solutions. I sent an email describing the rattle and my concern that if it is something metallic it might not be good for the electronics. I indicated that I was willing to take the back of the DRO head but doing so would require me to destroy the "No user serviceable parts inside" warranty sticker or I'd pack it up and he could have UPS pick it up and send me a new one.
He responded that he would be good for the warranty even if the sticker has been violated and I should open it up.
[attachment=9554]
Not exactly sure what it was but I can certify that it is now trash. I put everything back together and mounted the DRO.
Following Darren and Ed's suggestions I checked the other crimped connections on the DRO power cord. At least they are consistent. 3 disfunctional insulation crimps out of 3 attempts.
[attachment=9555]
I'm now off to hardware store to get new connectors. Assuming I can do a better job than they did I will declare that "it is now a lathe that runs" rather than "a collection of things that confirm the law of gravity is still in effect" and start a new thread over in the Lathe forum.
Thanks to everyone that is following this thread and offering help, suggestions and encouragement during this this adventure.