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+--- Thread: removing name plates (/thread-555.html)
RE: removing name plates - Mayhem - 06-26-2012
I'll have to see if I can get them over here. If not I'll have to get some sent from the US
RE: removing name plates - stevec - 06-26-2012
I was thinking of a little round collar, center drilled and countersunk just enough to center over the head of the drive screw would allow oe to drill out the drive screw. Just a thought.
RE: removing name plates - Tony Wells - 06-26-2012
(06-26-2012, 05:38 PM)Mayhem Wrote: I'll have to see if I can get them over here. If not I'll have to get some sent from the US
You should be able to, but if not, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a local fastener house that keeps a fair assortment, or used to. Plus I will be going after a few sizes for my projects.
RE: removing name plates - Mayhem - 06-26-2012
Thanks Tony, I'll keep that in mind.
RE: removing name plates - Tony Wells - 06-26-2012
Just let me know when you want them, and what size. If you get ready before I do, not a problem. I am in the place pretty often, and it's not off my beaten path to and from.
RE: removing name plates - starlight_tools - 06-26-2012
(06-26-2012, 03:14 PM)Tony Wells Wrote: I need to do the same thing to my mill, and also my Monarch lathe. The Monarch has heavy cast aluminum plates, to my thoughts there were to simply grind way the head and remove the plate. Then I hope there is enough to grab with vise-grips to "unscrew". They originally aren't intended to be removed, but as we all know....where there's a will...
On the mill, the plates are more the normal thin etched and silkscreened tags, so the Monarch option may not work well. A slot in the head, coupled with a little persuasion from a thin chisel usually works. If not, I will simply drill them out and go with the next size up. There are lots of variety in U-drive screws, so replacing isn't a problem. If the back is accessible, a small pin punch can be used to knock them right out.
If you do end up drilling for new ones, pay careful attention to the hole size. It's rather critical.
Sometimes it looks and works better if you replace with the drive screws small screws machine screws, 4-40 or 6-32, tap the hole and thread them in.
Another way to mask the plates is to coat them with grease, works better than masking tape. Just slather a thin layer of grease over the name plate, paint the item, let dry, then wipe off the grease, along with any overspray.
Walter
RE: removing name plates - Mayhem - 06-29-2012
Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserably
Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.
RE: removing name plates - DaveH - 06-30-2012
(06-29-2012, 11:26 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserablyOh dear, sometimes things just don't go how they should.
Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.
DaveH
RE: removing name plates - Bill Gruby - 06-30-2012
(06-29-2012, 11:26 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Well just tried the slotting/unscrewing method and failed miserably
Mutilated and snapped of heads thus far.
I see you have run into some really tight ones. In a case like this I just grind the heads off. redrill a little to one side and use new ones when ready.
"Billy G"
RE: removing name plates - stevec - 06-30-2012
(06-30-2012, 08:05 AM)Bill Gruby Wrote: I see you have run into some really tight ones. In a case like this I just grind the heads off. redrill a little to one side and use new ones when ready.
"Billy G"
Billy G, does "redrill a little to one side" mean that these little buggers are too hard to drill?
Steve