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+--- Thread: New bike project. (/thread-4185.html)
RE: New bike project. - EdK - 01-02-2023
Very nice work.
Ed
RE: New bike project. - toglhot - 01-02-2023
I removed the caliper mounter on the left fork as I'll only be using a single disk. As the guard has been shortened, the forward and lower stays won't be needed, so I also removed the mounts for them on the lower fork legs. Once all the stays were removed I ground them straight then polished them. There wa a bit of damage around the eseal area, once again the PO had used a pry bar or claw hammer to remove?replace the seals. I neatened them up as best I could. They cam up quite nice I think.
RE: New bike project. - Highpower - 01-03-2023
Brings back memories. Nice work.
Lubrication system mods. - toglhot - 01-03-2023
The TX650 has two oil filters, one mounted in the sump, the other in the right side engine cover. Neither are really filters, more like strainers. The sump filter is a weak spot in the lube system and has a habit of self destructing along one side where Yamaha, in its infinite wisdom, decided to use a straight section of filter screening, the remainder of the screening is concertinad, thus giving it better durability. The lube system is low pressure high volume due to roller bearing big ends. So, I decided to modify the system, to give better longevity and improve filtering.
First off, I made a guard that covers the flat screen section of the sump filter, thus protecting it and stopping it from tearing. I suspect the problem is probably related to the higher viscoity of the oil when cold, the oil presure is only around 10 -15psi on starting, dropping to around 4-5psi when warm, so pressure certainly isn't the issue. That done I moved onto the the right side filter/strainer.
RE: New bike project.Lube sytem mods, continued. - toglhot - 01-03-2023
I decided to replace the oil filter in the right side engine cover with a remote spin on filter. To do this I had to modify the right side cover. The right side cover houses the oil pump, the pump pumps oil up a 10mm gallery to the front of the cover which is stoppered with a bung. a cross drilling from the gallery leads to the filter in the right side cover, then on to the engine. So, to effect the mod, I had to remove the bung at the front of the cover, drill the gallery out to 10.8mm, thread it M12 about 40mm deep, then machine up a long threaded barb that screws into place covering the cross drilling to the right side cover filter. Drilling the gallery was a job in itself as the gallery is offset on two axis' so, after mounting the cover on the pedestal drill table the table had to be offset as well to align the drill with the oil gallery hole.
A spin on filter mount was then machined up, along with a threaded filter retainer, then a threaded barb was machined up that screws into the filter retainer, thus sandwiching the filter mount between. A barb was then machined up and pressed in to place next to the threaded barb for the oil inlet, as there was insufficient space for a threaded barb.
To mount the filter mount, I had to fabricate a couple of aluminium front engine mounts with an extension at the bottom on which to mount the filter.
While I was at it, I decided to add an oil cooler. A bracket was made that bolts to the front of both engine mounts and the cooler mounted to that via some long 10mm aluminium tubes and four long M6 bolts. To counter vibration, I installed four rubber gromets in the cooler mount. The cooler is mounted with the inlet and outlet facing up, so oil doesn't drain from the cooler to the engine when stationary.
For the feed back into the engine, I machined up a cover whith a raised section into which I pressed a barb, Looks much better than just screwing a right angle barb into the original filter cover.
A rubber hose connects the barb on the front of the right side engine cover to the inlet barb on the filter mount, similarly, a rubber hose connects the outlet on the filter to the cooler, and another hose connects the cooler outlet to the new right side cover inlet.
So, the system now works thus: the oil pump pumps oil up the 10.8mm gallery, bypassing the cross drilling to the right side filter and exits via the barb on the front of the cover. It is then fed to the inlet of the filter, then from the filter outlet to the cooler, then out of the cooler to the now empty right side filter recess, then on to the engine.
Exhaust pipes. - toglhot - 01-06-2023
I looked around at different exhausts and mufflers, none took my fancy, so, I decided to make my own.
For the pipes, I got a few bends bent up by the local exhaust shop. When I got them home,
I cut the pipes to the appropriate length, set up the offset angle and welded them together. The head clamps, I made from 10 mm aluminium. The inner lower clamps were bent up from 3mm steel in a half circle with a return either end and a mounting bracket welded on to mount to the frame. The outer part of the clamps were bent up from 3mm aluminium in a half circle with returns either end, similar to the inner steel clamps.
Muffler build. - toglhot - 01-06-2023
The mufflers were welded up from 56mm tube, I got the exhaust shop to cone two pieces of 45mm pipe out to 56mm and two from 42mm pipe and welded them either end of the 56mm pipe. The baffles are made from 38mm pipe, with lots of holes drilled through and one end stoppered.
Aluminium clamps were made up to clamp around the 56mm pipe, these bolt to the pillion passenger mounting points. The holes for the pillion pegs are 12mm, so I spun up a couple of brass bushes to bush the holes down to 10mm.
Once finished I painted the pipes and mufflers in heatnproof black paint, the aluminium mounts and clamps were polished.
I was expecting these to be on the loud side, but surprise, surprise, the baffles keep the noise down to a legal level.
Handlebar riser build. - toglhot - 01-07-2023
A couple of handlebar risers I machined up. I did look around for some commercially available ones, but as usual couldn't find any I like, so, made my own.
These were made on the lathe as I didn't have a mill at the time. Made from a slab of 25mm aluminium, mounted in the four jaw, turned to shape, drillwed and tapped the bottom, then the two holes for each cap. When done the two caps up top were cut off with a .08 slit saw. Also had to turn up four 3mm thick flat washers to fit over top and bottom of the grommets.
RE: Handlebar riser build. - Lockwood1956 - 01-13-2023
Sharp looking work :)
RE: New bike project. - TomG - 01-13-2023
Thank you for posting the detailed build pics. That is quite a project!
Tom