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+---- Thread: Macson 18" shaper (/thread-3321.html)
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RE: Macson 18" shaper - f350ca - 09-28-2016
Nice work Pete.
I made one like that for the Logan, but had to go to the design I used for the Peerless to get closer to the table. I don't have a proper vice yet so made a heavy V block to hold hubs, that puts the part close to the table where the clapper box would hit.
Interestingly I read an article where they recommended a longer arm on the bar. When its built as yours the clapper has to be locked to get down force on the cutter, as the arm gets longer the push on the cutter holds the cutter down.
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Pete O - 09-28-2016
Yep with this one I will need to lock the clapper as there would be no down force at all with this geometry other than the top-rake of the tool, which I believe is best kept to a minimum. Another option is to turn the bar over and cut the slot / keyway in the top of the bore- still no clapper action obviously.
With the first type of slotting tool, there's a good diagram in the USN Repairman's manual showing the need to have the vertical bar as long as the horizontal part so that the force closes, rather than opens, the clapper. I think this introduces way too much flex which results in digging-in.
I have read about shapers fitted with mechanical clappers that are opened and closed positively, would be interesting to rig something up to do this.
Stan, that grinding wheel (or is it a millstone?) is not what I was expecting!
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Sunset Machine - 09-29-2016
(09-28-2016, 09:57 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: WOW! That's one honking big grinding wheel. But then its certainly a way to achieve high SFPM at low RPMS.
A real eye catcher. I was thinking wheel wear might be the reason. A little 6x12 has a 1/2" wheel, while planers have much larger tables.
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Pete O - 09-30-2016
I managed to steal a few hours in the shed this afternoon and had a brainwave about the keyways I wanted to cut on the shaper. I had a few bushes for the horizontal milling arbor that needed slotting and I realised I was asking a lot of both the tool and the vice to make a 1/4" wide cut in steel. I roughed them out with 3 different tools- a V-form to take out the centre of the slot, then a left hand and a right hand tool bit to remove material from the sides, before making the final cut with the full-width slotting tool. Worked a treat and once I had the tools ground, it was reasonably quick process- with the workpiece in the vice, I centered the slotting tool between the jaws then just swapped the toolbits without changing the setup. I'm sure it would be no problem to cut a keyway in aluminium in one setup but the roughing passes were necessary in the 4140 I was working on. Did the cutting with the toolbit upwards so the clapper stayed closed.
I even got brave and put the shaper in second gear, seeing I had the stroke set at 2". Nothing like living in the fast lane.
I was able to explain to my wife that I was now using both the lathe and the shaper to make parts for the mill.
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Dr Stan - 09-30-2016
I strongly suspect your shaper has the muscle to cut the keyway to full width. However similarly I would have used two cutting tools. One 3/16 out of a 1/4" cutting tool and then to full width. Should reduce chatter and improve accuracy.
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Sunset Machine - 10-01-2016
"I was able to explain to my wife that I was now using both the lathe and the shaper to make parts for the mill."
The mill also makes parts for the shaper. Don't forget to tell her that too!
Show her your tee-nuts.
RE: Macson 18" shaper - Roadracer_Al - 10-02-2016
Let's leave the bedroom out of this conversation.
