+- MetalworkingFun Forum (http://www.metalworkingfun.com)
+-- Forum: Machining (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-5.html)
+--- Forum: Projects (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/forum-7.html)
+--- Thread: Electronics Question (again...) (/thread-3111.html)
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - pepi - 03-12-2016
(03-11-2016, 07:28 PM)Vinny Wrote: The light on the old one is a neon. They run at 90v AC and the 33K resistor drops the line voltage to 90V. The schematic for the knee feed looks like the light is also a neon.
What I suggest is to find a neon panel lamp that's small enough to mount to the cover and wire it in without the resistor (the panel lamp will have the resistor built in). Here's a link to some:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/panel-indicators-pilot-lights/524928?k=neon&pv183=3090&FV=fff40008%2Cfff80280&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25
EDIT:
Almost forgot, the reason the lamp looks to be wired right across the line is because the schematic is of the circuit board, the power switch is not mounted to it.
Vinny is correct that neon bulb is a game changer.
Nice call Vinny
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - EdK - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 08:24 AM)pepi Wrote: that neon bulb is a game changer.
Not really, you can get LED pilot/panel lights that will run on 110/220VAC.
Ed
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - Mayhem - 03-12-2016
Just out of interest - what is the issue with the lamp (big picture)? Is it that you finish machining a part and then find out three days later that you have left the unit switched on? If so, just kill the power to the machine after use. When I kill my power, the spindle motor, feed motor, coolant pump (not present yet) and the DRO all go off. Simple
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - Highpower - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 08:35 AM)EdK Wrote:(03-12-2016, 08:24 AM)pepi Wrote: that neon bulb is a game changer.
Not really, you can get LED pilot/panel lights that will run on 110/220VAC.
Ed
But can you get them with the built in momentary push button switch in the center of the light ring? I searched Digi-key for hours trying to find one but couldn't. The only switches I could find with 110/120V illumination inputs were the neon lamped switches.
All the LED and incandescent versions were 12VDC.That's why I just ordered a replacement switch for the knee feed to use on the table feed.
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - Highpower - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 09:27 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Just out of interest - what is the issue with the lamp (big picture)? Is it that you finish machining a part and then find out three days later that you have left the unit switched on? If so, just kill the power to the machine after use. When I kill my power, the spindle motor, feed motor, coolant pump (not present yet) and the DRO all go off. Simple
Close. Along with all the rest of the "accessories" on the same circuit is the SHOP LIGHTS. Even if I'm not using a machine and I'm working in the shop, I still need the lights! Leaving all the rest powered up all day long is pointless.
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - EdK - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 12:17 PM)Highpower Wrote: All the LED and incandescent versions were 12VDC.
A diode and resistor would make a 12VDC version work on 120VAC.
Ed
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - Mayhem - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 12:47 PM)Highpower Wrote: ...Along with all the rest of the "accessories" on the same circuit is the SHOP LIGHTS. Even if I'm not using a machine and I'm working in the shop, I still need the lights! Leaving all the rest powered up all day long is pointless.
That is why I ran a dedicated circuit to the mill and lathe. I can isolate each individually at their respective outlet or I can flick the circuit breaker and cut the feed to both.
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - pepi - 03-12-2016
(03-12-2016, 08:35 AM)EdK Wrote:(03-12-2016, 08:24 AM)pepi Wrote: that neon bulb is a game changer.
Not really, you can get LED pilot/panel lights that will run on 110/220VAC.
Ed
I would like to see a link and learn more about that. Surly it needs a bridge, can't think of it as a plug and play, or direct wire to line voltage.
I am trying to fit this into the PF unit. The game changer comment was driven with the thought in mind that a circuit will need to in place to eliminate the neon, not a lot of unused real-estate in there.
I have also seen those bulbs used as a voltage regulator. To be clear any observations or suggestion, I make require it to fit under the hood of that PF unit.
One other item, not real confident that those diagrams are complete. A quick scan did not see the speed control pot or variable resistor.
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - Highpower - 03-18-2016
Chapter Two: A Fresh Start ... or is it?
Got the new switch in hand today to see what I could see....
First I checked the resistor that feeds the original neon lamp bulb at 32.97K? (Spec is 33K? 5%)
Then I attached a couple of jumper wires to the molex connector for the new ring light and applied them to the old neon lamp leads, and she lit up just fine.
Now I just have to hope I guessed at ordering the correct mating connector and pins to connect the switch to.
There are thousands of them.
[attachment=13056]
RE: Electronics Question (again...) - pepi - 03-19-2016
