(09-01-2013, 05:40 PM)oldgoaly Wrote: I know some of so called internet experts say it's easier using green sand? I don't see that! Do you just "eyeball" your sand or do you using a test kit? the type that generate acetylene gas? yes I have one of those testers even a full can of the "active ingredient" (don't remeber what the chemical is but Union Carbide made it) Also if you mix too much oil you get lots of smoke, not so with water. DA uses motor oil which works, I just think the 2 stroke is ade to burn anyway probably not going to leave any residue that could cause problems in the finish or ruin the sand. Oh I forgot to take a pic of my sand fluffer (sometimes I think I spend way to much time reading old books, The fluffer is supposed to replace some shoveling while tempering the sand, still haven't used it..
I bought a chip wringer of ebay for 20-25$ spent 125$ in shipping, I tacked some metal to make it handle sand, tried it, works, since have broken some of the temporary tacks, needs to be moved back to the main shop to be welded properly and a couple of mods. Basically I wanted to have a set up I could cast a couple of days and then in between real jobs make the casting fit what they are for.

So called internet ''experts''??? ha ha anyone can melt[or as they like to think''smelt''] alloy down & pour it into tart tins wearing shorts & trainers rejoyce at their ''expertise'' & all the minnions bulling them up how clever they are!! my favourites are myfordboy & our very own doubleboost,no nonsense good stuff & know what the're talking about, I personally think petrobonds easier 'cos it's ready tempered [but stinks] & for fine work it's superior whereas greensand has to be tempered & requires more judgment[but smells nice & earthy] I'm deffo low tech,relying on my judgement, I use ''the hand method'' no not that!!!he he, squeeze it & break it if it's o-k it'll break cleanly & not stick to your hand ajust as required,I mix it in a bucket with an electric drill with a plaster mixer the type with 2 disks on not the paddle type which are useless & it fluffs it up gr8 & also does petro[comes out like snuff!!]it's as good as all your mixers & doesn't take up any room, I have a pyrometer but only use it occasionally, if it sticks to the skimmer it's not hot enough if it comes off it's about right & I've allways used proper salamander crucibles allthough just recently for ally I'm using a steel pot [I cut the bottom 8" off a co2 gas bottle,no welding or joins & strong but I allways paint inside with zircon refractory wash to avoid metal contamination & also molten alloy eats away at steel, I tried a stainless biscuit barrel once [it lasted 1/2 a melt & burnt out]bloody alloy in a solid block in the bottom of the furnace, coke & a blower take no prisoners,you really get some heat up !!
Graham.

(09-02-2013, 03:26 PM)oldgoaly Wrote: Graham,
oh the safety issues!!!! I have seen a 1/2 crucible of aluminum blow! all it takes is a small drop of moisture! we have older leather protective gear, there is a box with really old "asbestos" gear in a corner safely put away.
I had checked out the old enameling techniques, I found out why they don't do that anymore, lead and cyanide.... one of things I make parts for is these toy / salesman sample stoves, many of them were made in the town I grew up in. This is the only one in the house she has at least a dozen of them. They are fun, welding thin cast iron is tricky, if I did it more often, I oxy-acetylene gas weld with piston rings or cast iron rod, which ever color matches best.

(09-03-2013, 05:06 PM)oldgoaly Wrote: Graham,
Not sure if you have this on your side of the pond? the best flux for cast iron welding is Peterson's Cast Iron flux, looks like hell but it floats all the crap to the top. of course proper pre and post heat is needed. I peeked into her spot where the little stoves are, piled full of recycling stuff....