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+--- Thread: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Enco (/thread-157.html)
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - DaveH - 04-28-2012
Ed,
This may help http://www.sealing.com/fileadmin/docs/Lip_Seal_Installation.pdf
DaveH
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - f350ca - 04-28-2012
A seal driver is simply a piece of tube that just catches the outside edge of the seal where it presses in. As long as you don't deform the lip area your laughing. Its nice to press them in if you can, keeps them square to the bore to avoid distortion, but lots are driven in with the seal driver and a hammer when the part is too big to get to the press.
From your photo, usually the lips point away from each other on a two seal set up. One to hold the oil in the other to keep dirt out, but every situation varies. On a double seal be sure to lube between them and the seal surface, you don't want them running dry, real short life in that state. Press the first one to depth, then press the second one in, best not to push one with the other.
Hope this helps,
Greg
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - EdK - 04-28-2012
(04-28-2012, 07:48 PM)DaveH Wrote: Ed,Hi Dave,
This may help http://www.sealing.com/fileadmin/docs/Lip_Seal_Installation.pdf
DaveH
That shows how to install on a shaft. My situation is installing a seal in a housing. I found this that shows how to install in a housing.
http://www.epm.com/oil_instal.htm
And this, page 12.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Seal-Specification-Guide.pdf
Ed
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - EdK - 04-28-2012
(04-28-2012, 07:53 PM)f350ca Wrote: A seal driver is simply a piece of tube that just catches the outside edge of the seal where it presses in. As long as you don't deform the lip area your laughing. Its nice to press them in if you can, keeps them square to the bore to avoid distortion, but lots are driven in with the seal driver and a hammer when the part is too big to get to the press.
From your photo, usually the lips point away from each other on a two seal set up. One to hold the oil in the other to keep dirt out, but every situation varies. On a double seal be sure to lube between them and the seal surface, you don't want them running dry, real short life in that state. Press the first one to depth, then press the second one in, best not to push one with the other.
Hope this helps,
Greg
Hi Greg,
That definitely helps. My situation is that the seals are enclosed in a mill head in which the gears are in an oil bath so dust is not a problem. The seals are to prevent the oil from leaking past the quill.
Thanks,
Ed
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Mayhem - 04-28-2012
You can buy a bearing/seal installation kit, or you can make them up your self. All you need is a flat disc slightly smaller that the OD of the seal and use that to gently tap it down into place. The store bought ones have a taper on them as well for installing bearing races.
http://www.nextag.com/bearing-race-seal-driver/products-html
Another anecdote for 'why I bought a lathe' :)
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - ETC57 - 04-29-2012
Ed ,
I have used regular old sockets of a reasonable size and a brass hammer for the past 30 years and have yet to damage a seal.
Jerry.
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Mayhem - 04-29-2012
You must have some bloody big sockets Jerry :) I guess it all depends on the size of the seal and yes, I have used sockets, wrist pins, pipe and other such things. Those seals looked a little larger though that may just be that there is no reference point. The big drifts are nice to use in a press though.
Greg raises a good point regarding the orientation of a seal. The hollow section, should be on the oil side, as any pressure forces the seal against the shaft to prevent leaking. So, looking at your pic Ed, the one in the bore is correctly orientated if you are fitting it into the bore against the bottom lip. The other one is also orientated correctly to fit flush with the top of the bore (i.e the two recesses face each other).
Don't forget to give the lips a good lube with some oil before inserting the quill. If you have any engine assembly lube, I would use that.
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - DaveH - 04-29-2012
I have to say I have used sockets I didn't want to be the first to suggest it
DaveH
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - f350ca - 04-29-2012
He didn't ask how we (self included) put in seals, he asked how to do it properly.
Greg
RE: Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Highpower - 04-29-2012
(04-29-2012, 10:35 AM)f350ca Wrote: He didn't ask how we (self included) put in seals, he asked how to do it properly.
Greg
![[Image: yeah.gif]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/Highpwr/Smilies/yeah.gif)
Good one Greg!
Guilty as charged....