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+--- Thread: Vise length Stops (/thread-385.html)
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Vise length Stops - Dave J - 05-09-2012
Hi,
These where made a few years ago so I would post them up here.
This vise stop is more suited to a Kurt style vise, but could easily be used on any style of vise by taping 2 holes into the back of the vise for it to be mounted.
I have seen a few good vise stop designs around the internet so I picked a bit here and there and added some of my own ideas.
It is all made from mild steel I had laying around, the main round bar is 28mm round x 330mm long the slotted bar is 12x32x150mm long, the sliding block is 21x21x51 high and the adjustable stop rod is 8mm round x 210mm long. This rod is a hardened rod out of a pallet nailing machine. The son in law works their and these are changed out every so often and he picked them up for me (all my friends and family are helpful and are always bringing me things like this)
I machined a flat about 6mm deep in the main round bar to give it a flat so it sits firmly against the vise and countersunk the M10 socket head screws into the back of it to suit the vise. I drilled 3 holes so it is adjustable and taped each end M10 so it can be changed to either side of the vise easily.
The flat bar was drilled out all along with a 9mm drill bit, then slotted with a 10mm end mill and the again with a 20mm one for a recess for the T nut to slide in.
As seen in one of the pictures below I rounded it off with a end mill pivoting it around a socket screw clamped in the vise. Having the head of the socket screws on top stops it climbing up the end mill. It is just done by hand a little at a time but don't try climb milling when doing it or it will get ripped out of your hands, after each cut move the job away from the cutter to return it.
In another picture you can see the allen key I made up so it is only the one allen key to adjust anything on it to save time looking around for them. I just welded a piece of 4mm to the 8mm key.
The smaller vise stops are for clamping onto the top of the vise jaws and can be used for any vise. These are not new and Chinese one's are sold in the US. They can also be made with longer rods and be used as a table stops clamped from one T slot to the other.
Again I just made these from steel I had laying around and they are 33mm long x 18mm high x 9mm each side wide, with a 5.5mm x 5mm step machined into them to site on the vise jaw. The rods a 1/4inch and the socket head screws are 6mm. I heated them up and gave them a dunk in oil to blacken them when they were finished.
These have worked out to be more handy than I thought and I recommend them to you guys even if you buy them.
Dave
RE: Vise length Stops - Mayhem - 05-09-2012
Nice work Dave
RE: Vise length Stops - EdK - 05-09-2012
Dave,
That's a nice stop. I like the way you rounded off the end of the bar. That's a good tip.
Ed
RE: Vise length Stops - DaveH - 05-09-2012
Dave,
Very nice, and very nicely made
Just wondering if you could explain the technique you use to put the radius on that flat bar
DaveH
RE: Vise length Stops - Highpower - 05-09-2012
Tis a thing of beauty Dave. Very nice work.
RE: Vise length Stops - DanH - 05-09-2012
That dual hex key is very clever.
RE: Vise length Stops - ETC57 - 05-09-2012
Nice work Dave,
Now for a newby question!
I get that it's a positioning tool, but would that be for say a project requiring the reproduction of a single item?
Or dose it have other uses?
Sometimes my clever needs a jump start.
Jerry.
RE: Vise length Stops - Dave J - 05-09-2012
(05-09-2012, 07:45 AM)DaveH Wrote: Dave,
Very nice, and very nicely made
Just wondering if you could explain the technique you use to put the radius on that flat bar
DaveH
Hi Dave,
That is an old trick I picked up some where.
You just hold it with your hand or if it's small like a model engine conrod with a pair of vise grips. I always have my fingers either side for a quick release if something goes wrong, so don't grab the part with your fingers wrapped around because if something goes wrong your fingers will be jambed between the part and the vise.
I usually chop off the corners with the band saw at 45 deg to make it quicker, and then just feed a little at the time. Never climb mill doing this, or it will walk on it's own and can do damage to either you or the cutter, and make sure you have a firm grip. If you don't think you can hold it use a tool or a jig attached to it.
Taking little bites there is not much force, so just take it steady and you will be fine.
Try it one day with a longer bit of scrap flat bar just to see. All you need is a pin or bolt clamped in the vise near the end of the jaw and a matching drilled hole in centered in the flat bar.
Dave
RE: Vise length Stops - Highpower - 05-09-2012
(05-09-2012, 09:24 AM)ETC57 Wrote: I get that it's a positioning tool, but would that be for say a project requiring the reproduction of a single item?
Or dose it have other uses?
Right you are Jerry. Good for locating stock in the vice to machine multiple identical parts, or for simply placing a part back in the vice in the same spot if it was removed for measurements or a second operation, etc.
RE: Vise length Stops - Dave J - 05-09-2012
I missed that question, sorry about that Jerry.
Yes the length stop is more for multiple parts, but as said above it allows you to put the part back in and easy pick up on it's coordinates again (now theres a big word for me, LOL)
It may also be used for things like drilling/milling in from the end of a piece, that way when you turn it around to do the other end it will be the same.
There are many ways it can be used.
I have just finished 46 tool holders and I could throw the next one in the vise against the stop knowing it would be in the same spot as the last one.
Dave