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Ah ok that makes sense. The guys over on Weapons Guild used a transformer from the store that just didn't put out more than 3v
I like making a system specifically designed for this better personally. I wonder how I could have this plug into the wall as well as use batteries. Although I probably wouldn't use it anywhere I would require battery power.
SnailPowered, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Aug 2012.
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Hello, I'm certainly no expert on this topic, but from experience, using stainless wire when electroplating can seriously slow the process, due I was told to the high resistance of the material, It was further stated that the boundary between electrolytes and stainless steel is particularly resistant to current flow.
So if you are using s/s TIG wire .....
Warning; This may be hokum. I have no evidence, this post is based on heresay and a couple of failed efforts plating some steel.
Best regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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08-26-2012, 10:47 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-26-2012, 11:21 AM by SnailPowered.)
I read that there was a risk of having some chromium...something come off the S/S that is hazardous waste as well. They were saying it's best to use normal steel wire. Let me see if I can find the information again.
Ok, so here is the quote from the thread on Weapons Guild, "The solution is sodium carbonate you can use sodium bicarbonate but have to use twice as much and it takes longer. Sodium carbonate is very cheap available at pool/spa supply stores. Its used to raise the PH of pool water. Also do not use Stainless Steel as the sacrificial anode with this setup as the solution biproduct will contain 20% chromium which is a hazardous waste, very nasty stuff to say the least."
Also here is a PDF from the same thread that is a little bit more in depth on the electronics I think.
Foul Out Clone 2.pdf (Size: 403.2 KB / Downloads: 9)
SnailPowered, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Aug 2012.
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Maybe the answer then?
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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08-26-2012, 04:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-26-2012, 04:49 PM by DanH.)
Collecting tools for 30 years.
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For a first attempt I would say that's pretty darn good! I couldn't do that well on a flat piece of steel
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Dan,
Z-axis drive for....? What kind of machine is it going on?
Nice job of keeping that box straight and square!
Willie
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You could do a lot worse than that, 18 guage isn't very thick by most people's standards, so be kind to yourself.
Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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It's for the z-axis on my RF-45 clone mill. I am doing a similar install to Henry's but adapted to fit with my motor. I will do a full writeup when it's done.
Thanks for the positive feedback on the welds. This is where the Tig really shines as it gives you such great control. I still burned through at the corners but it was great practice. I have to do another box for the up/down switch and speed control dial which i will share later.
Collecting tools for 30 years.
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08-27-2012, 08:08 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-27-2012, 08:44 AM by dallen.)
nice job on the corner weld.
I didn't do this today but hope to finish with it sometime today. I'm trying to make a cutter (first time/one) soooo was hoping for some advise on how to put some flutes that will cut on the big end of this rod. I need it so that it will cut from (to me the back/drill end) it only has to go thru a single layer thats about 14 gauge probably 4140.
What I'm hoping for to be able to just run a mill cutter down the shank so in about 3 or 4 places, what I don't know is do I need to undercut the leading edge of the flute.
Problem with just running a drill bit thru the hole is that there is a smaller hole in front of the one that I need to enlarge, and I can really get to it with a bit from the back.
OOOh yea the rod in the picture is O1 drill rod, and yes I will harden it.
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