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This is a floating reamer holder that I throwed together the last couple of days. Its one of those things that I saw and told myself I need one incase I ever get into re chambering a barrel as I dabble a little bit in gun work, anyway I had all the arbor and a couple of plates, the hardware cost me about 10 dollars so I figure I got out pretty cheap as a store bought one is around a couple hundred.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
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07-28-2012, 03:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-28-2012, 03:30 PM by Highpower.)
(07-28-2012, 10:29 AM)dallen Wrote: This is a floating reamer holder that I throwed together the last couple of days. Its one of those things that I saw and told myself I need one incase I ever get into re chambering a barrel as I dabble a little bit in gun work, anyway I had all the arbor and a couple of plates, the hardware cost me about 10 dollars so I figure I got out pretty cheap as a store bought one is around a couple hundred.
I would say that throw was a smokin fastball! 
Willie
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How does that thing work to hold a reamer? 
Ed
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the reamer is held in the center of the outer plate by four set screw. the holes that the bolts are going thru are a really loose fit I used 3/8 bolts I need like 1/2 inch holes for them to pass thru. there is a sliding center point that fits in to the center hole in the end of the reamer shaft.
the way it works is that the springs keep the reamer shaft pushed back against the center point while the lathe is turning the gun barrel if there is any misalignment in the setup its take care of by the reamer being able to float/or move around to take care of the misalignment.
I hope I got all that right. I'll post a disassembled photo in a little while.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
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07-28-2012, 07:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-28-2012, 07:13 PM by dallen.)
as promised a photo. the bolts should be smooth with shanked with only about an inch of thread for assembly and tension adjustment.
still haven't found the slick and shiny setting on my camera
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
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Hello Dallen,
You really want to use "Shoulder" bolts on that, they do a far better job of driving than the set screws you've got or even the straight shank ones you suggested, Oh and any photos you take of them automatically adjust your camera to the Shiney setting as they come with ground shanks.
Best Regards
Rick
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(08-06-2012, 03:59 PM)Rickabilly Wrote: Hello Dallen,
You really want to use "Shoulder" bolts on that, they do a far better job of driving than the set screws you've got or even the straight shank ones you suggested, Oh and any photos you take of them automatically adjust your camera to the Shiney setting as they come with ground shanks.
Best Regards
Rick
Hi Rick
yea I know I need to change the bolts to ones with smooth shanks so that the springs won't hang but I was in the middle of a financial crisis when I purchased those and just wanted to put it together. I still have to buy a chamber reamer before I can use it for what I made it for.
your saying using shoulder bolts will bring out the bright and shiny settings on my camera  why can't I think of these simple fixes, the guys at the tool house said it was the cheap inserts I been getting from evil bay 
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(08-06-2012, 09:25 PM)dallen Wrote: the guys at the tool house said it was the cheap inserts I been getting from evil bay
In my experience the finishes I am seeing are probably a result of using a negative rake insert on too light a machine or a machine with loose gibs, assuming that is that you are using power feeds, negative rake tools,(so pretty much any tool where the insert has a hole in it) tend to load the toolpost up laterally if the machines rigidity is not at it's best the finish is the first thing to suffer,
The problem being that even the newest machines are designed under the influence of experience gained working with 50-100 year old lathes, in that last 100 years there have been really significant changes in the tools with the CNC industry in mind, but the strength of cross slides and toolposts is almost unchanged.
Best Regards
Rick
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08-07-2012, 07:09 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-07-2012, 07:11 AM by Mayhem.)
(08-06-2012, 09:25 PM)dallen Wrote: ...the guys at the tool house said it was the cheap inserts I been getting from evil bay...
More importantly, what tool holders are you putting these cheap inserts into? If they are cheap tool holders, your problems may start and end there.
(08-07-2012, 02:48 AM)Rickabilly Wrote: ...negative rake tools,(so pretty much any tool where the insert has a hole in it)...
I'm not sure that is the best way to identify negative rake inserts. All my positive ones have a hole in them.
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Oh I think the problem lies more with me then it does with the machine or tooling, but the lathe may be in need of some tightening up, but that means another trip to the scrappers seeing as how its previous owners treated it badly by crashing it three or four times from what I can tell.
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