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Thanks guys!
With regards to the grub screws, yes there were. I have removed them after finding that if I tightened them up it 'locked' the hub up (i.e. no longer able to move the selector). To me, this suggested that the holes went all the way through the hub and why I tried bolts. I cannot get any grip with a bearing puller, given the taper at the back of the hub. Heat is on the list but haven't tried that just yet.
I cannot actuate the clutch by hand with it out of the lathe.
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Could the associated parts come off the other end of the shaft then hub and shaft come out together?
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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That is possible Greg but if that is the case then masking tape is making an appearance. I'm not stripping out the head, gearbox and apron just to chip off the multiple layers of flaking paint and give her a respray
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You can still use a puller, it doesn't have to grab from behind. Even make one. Piece of steel with 3 holes, center one tapped for a nice bolt. The other two line up with the threaded holes in the hub. Tighten the bolt to pull it off.
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Mayhem (01-28-2022)
I believe he said he already tried that Vinny. But he used a slide hammer rather than a center push bolt.
(01-27-2022, 05:00 PM)Mayhem Wrote: I cannot get any grip with a bearing puller, given the taper at the back of the hub.
I wasn't talking about using a typical 2 or 3 jaw bearing/gear puller Darren. I was talking about a bearing separator that has knife edges on the back side to wedge between 2 bearings that are pressed on back to back or flush to a shoulder. Tighter than two coats of paint. The knife edges would easily get enough purchase on the rear taper of your hub to pull it off.
Willie
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Thanks Vinny - I did do something similar but I used a slide hammer instead.
Edit - sorry, I was typing my response whilst Willie was responding and got distracted in doing so!
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Mayhem, besides the tools, many times in "impossible" situations I've found that kerosene (paraffin-UK) if given time will free anything I've ever had to deal with. Including a pulley frozen (apparently loctited) onto the crankshaft of an UL engine that took a week to release with a gear puller in place and tensioned. It's just time and pressure, and the kerosene working its way in to the point of release. Likewise soaking parts frozen together in a container frees assemblies eventually. Likewise a frozen flywheel on a Martiner outboard motor. Likewise freeing a stuck piston in a rusted block with the kerosene sitting on top in the cylinder.
But it takes time, and patience. So satisfying when it does pop free, and does so undamaged.
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I generally do soak stuff but that didn't even occur to me for some strange reason. I have time and patience!
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Any progress on this? I need to hear some GOOD news right now from
somebody, anybody!
Willie
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(02-18-2022, 04:02 PM)Highpower Wrote: I need to hear some GOOD news right now from somebody, anybody!
I thought my recently acquired 4K monitor gave up the ghost. It ended up being a settings issue. Somehow the source port got changed from Display Port to HDMI. I changed it back to Display Port and enabled auto port detection so I don't have to deal with selecting which port to use. That's good news for me.
Ed
