Posts: 2,629
Threads: 101
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
The following 1 user Likes Vinny's post:
TomG (12-05-2021)
Posts: 8,889
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Not as cute as Lucy but probably just as useful.
The only thing that seems to be damaged is the blade tensioning knob. I'll inspect the rest of the machine tomorrow.
Ed
Posts: 4,493
Threads: 187
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Missouri, USA
(12-16-2021, 09:42 PM)EdK Wrote: Not as cute as Lucy but probably just as useful.
The only thing that seems to be damaged is the blade tensioning knob. I'll inspect the rest of the machine tomorrow.
Ed
It never fails. The last rotary table I bought came with a foot stock adjustment knob that looked just like that!
Make sure you clean all the bronze shavings out of that gearbox before you run it. My saw came loaded with gold sparkles mixed in with what little oil it had in it.
Willie
Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
The following 1 user Likes f350ca's post:
EdK (12-17-2021)
Maybe not as cute but more useful
Greg
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Posts: 240
Threads: 30
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Planeta Rica, Colombia
Looks identical to mine. I need to buy new blades.
JScott, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Mar 2014.
Posts: 8,889
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
(12-18-2021, 02:24 PM)JScott Wrote: Looks identical to mine. I need to buy new blades.
I bought a new bi-metal blade before the band saw arrived. I'll use the one that came with it until it craps out then install the new blade.
Ed
Posts: 2,629
Threads: 101
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
Same saw I have. Be aware, the base is unstable. I replaced the wheels with real ones and put wider feet (on the ends) to widen the stance. As to blades, I got tired of buying them and bought a blade welder. Also got tired of getting blades that were backward!
Posts: 8,889
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Anybody have a suggestion as to what oil to use to replace the questionable oil that's in the gear box from the factory? The manual says 140 weight gear oil. Seems like that's kind of heavy but I'm no expert in gear oil. It needs to be able to be used with a bronze gear.
Ed
EDIT: Never mind, I found this.
Gear Oil
Posts: 795
Threads: 52
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
The following 3 users Like rleete's post:
arvidj (12-21-2021), EdK (12-21-2021), Vinny (12-21-2021)
I bought a pallet of HF returns about 10 years back. Took the parts and rebuilt 2 complete saws plus leftover parts. Sold one saw (for the cost of the pallet plus extra), and kept the other, which I still use to this day. In both, I cleaned out the gearboxes using kerosene and replaced the oil with 90W gear oil, same as I use in my car. Never had a problem.
I get blades made from the leftover pieces of stock they use to make bands here at work. Starrett bimetal, which they buy in large rolls. Since they cut stainless steel and solid nickel here, they go through a lot of blades, so I get a new blade about once every six to nine months. I think I have 3 replacements stacked up, because I mostly cut aluminum and brass. But if I even suspect it's getting dull, I swap them out and return the old ones to work for recycling.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
Posts: 795
Threads: 52
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
The following 5 users Like rleete's post:
arvidj (12-21-2021), TomG (12-21-2021), EdK (12-21-2021), Highpower (12-21-2021), Vinny (12-21-2021)
Bought myself one of these:
Always wanted/needed one, but never wanted to spend the money. Since I have several seasonal vehicles, it seems I'm always breaking out the jumper cables, and this is far easier to haul out to the garage than pulling the truck out back. Loads of power, and holds a charge for a long time. Only downside is that it's pretty heavy at 20+ pounds.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
|