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Yeah, thanks for bringing up the memories of installing one of those HF hoists Arvid. NOT!!! 
Nice write up though. 
If you ever find a way to slow one of those hoists down to a controllable rate let me know. I'm tired of doing a 'clean and jerk' lift every time I want to pick something up off of my mill table. 
Willie
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(07-13-2021, 03:26 AM)Highpower Wrote: Yeah, thanks for bringing up the memories of installing one of those HF hoists Arvid. NOT!!!
Nice write up though.
If you ever find a way to slow one of those hoists down to a controllable rate let me know. I'm tired of doing a 'clean and jerk' lift every time I want to pick something up off of my mill table.
Yeah similar memories of installing two of the things into the roof purlins of my shed to store my strip canoe out of harm's way, the roof is around 20' and I hung them by standing on a stepladder on the roofrack of my Land Rover. Safe as.
I guess you can slow them as much as you want with sheave blocks, just need enough wire rope for the number of loops.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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They run on AC right? What about one of HF's Router Speed Controls? I put a bridge rectifier on one and ran my mini lathe on it for about a year till I got around to fixing the internal control (kept forgetting to order the parts).
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(07-13-2021, 08:24 AM)Pete O Wrote: I guess you can slow them as much as you want with sheave blocks, just need enough wire rope for the number of loops.
I've already added one additional sheave block and it still lifts too fast for my liking. In my case my hoist is mounted just overhead (7 ft. ceiling) so not a lot of distance between the lift hook and the mill table. So the entire cable wants to twist around itself because of the changing directions of the cable path in such a short distance. I'm not sure I trust the HF cable as it is making all those short turns. 
Vinny: I have read that fiddling with the A/C voltage also effects the function of the brake control on the hoist .eg not holding. I pretty much stopped looking into it after that. If I had known how fast it runs out of the box I never would have bought it. But I didn't want a chain fall hanging in the way all the time either. Oh well - life in a shoe box shop. 
Willie
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Made a new mounting post for my OXA QCTP. The one that came with the QCTP was too short IMHO. Couldn't thread it into the compound all of the way because it wouldn't leave enough left sticking above the tool post to fully engage the threads on the nut. Plus I'm adding a thrust bearing which requires even more length on the mounting post. I got a little carried away with the thread relief on the left end. Could have been a lot less. 
I've always wanted to try cold blueing so I ordered a bottle of it to try on this.
Ed
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The following 1 user Likes TomG's post:
Dr Stan (08-12-2021)
Looks good, Ed.
For the record, the best cold bluing I've found is Brownell's Oxpho-blue.
Tom
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I will second that brand.
Also, to get a really dark, even blue, heat the part slightly. I use a toaster oven. It should be hot enough that you can almost hold it in your bare hand, but not so hot that the bluing just boils off. Slather the bluing on, and scrub it with very fine steel wool. I usually do 2-3 coats, with a few minutes in between each one. Last, use some good light oil (gun oil, 3-in-one, etc.) and coat it well. Leave it to sit for a while before wiping off the excess.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
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The stuff I ordered is "Brownell Formula 44/40 Instant Gun Blue". It got lots of good reviews on Amazon so hopefully it'll do the job.
Ed
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I've ordered my Pro-Series 2613 Gerstner top chest in cherry. It is in the hardware section and should be shipped in a week or two.
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I bought a kit to convert the cross slide and compound to imperial screws to replace the metric screws. As long as I had the lathe apart I decided to add some GITs oilers.
The brass one on the cross slide has no flange on the top so I don't have to counterbore for it. It needs to be flush or slightly below the surface since the compound slide would hit it otherwise. The closest drill bit I had was .002" over the needed hole size and it went in rather hard scrapping the brass off as it went. I decided to wait to do the other one until I have the proper sized cutter. It will be here Monday.
I think I'll look at making some way wipers as long as I have the saddle off. 
Ed
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