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(05-19-2017, 02:43 PM)Vinny Wrote: Then the MT2 you're putting in there may be too short. Try putting something in there, like a nut, while it's fully retracted and see if an MT2 will go in and seat. If it doesn't, crank in out a little and see if it seats. If it does, crank it back in and it should release it and you'll know that your MT2 is too short. If you have something currently stuck in there, remove the quill and put a punch or rod in the hole and tap it out with a hammer. Heating the quill may be necessary - it was the only way to get a chuck out of my Logan when I first got it.
Hi Vinny, as I explained above my tailstock dosn't have the feature of winding back the quill to eject the taper neither does it have a hole through for knocking the taper or anything stuck in it, out.
Looks like one of the first jobs when I get the machine running will be to bore a through hole in the tailstock quill.
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When you remove the quill, there has to be a hole on the end that's normally in the tail stock. That's where the screw screws in to move it in and out. That's the hole I'm talking about. Also, if the MT2 that's in the tail stock now, if there is one, isn't ejecting when the quill is all the way in, it may be that it's too short. The screw that moves the quill in and out is the screw that ejects the MT2 that's in the quill. If the MT2 that's in the quill is too short, that screw will never touch it so it'll seem that it doesn't have the feature but it really does.
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(05-19-2017, 04:12 PM)Vinny Wrote: When you remove the quill, there has to be a hole on the end that's normally in the tail stock. That's where the screw screws in to move it in and out. That's the hole I'm talking about. Also, if the MT2 that's in the tail stock now, if there is one, isn't ejecting when the quill is all the way in, it may be that it's too short. The screw that moves the quill in and out is the screw that ejects the MT2 that's in the quill. If the MT2 that's in the quill is too short, that screw will never touch it so it'll seem that it doesn't have the feature but it really does.
Hi Vinny, as I explained above my tailstock dosn't have the feature of winding back the quill to eject the taper neither does it have a hole through for knocking the taper or anything stuck in it, out.
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But - if you wind the tailstock quill (barrel) forwards, the screw will eventually disengage and you can remove it from the main casting - then you'll find the thread the handwheel screw engaged will be in a through-bore which you can put a drift into to knock the Morse taper out. The Morse taper tooling should have a tang on the small end which hits the screw when retracted to free the tooling, often cheap tooling doesn't have the tang (and a lot of Chinese tooling is made shorter and won't hit the screw).
Alternatively, there may be a slot in the quill (barrel) where you can tap in a wedge (a Morse taper drift) to bear on the back (small) end of the Morse taper tool, BUT the short tooling (if you're cursed with it) won't reach the slot...
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Can you remove the quill from the tailstock and take a picture of it? You may well have on that was made on a Friday afternoon and someone forgot to drill a hole all they way through for a rod to be used to eject the tool.
As mentioned, it looks to be the same design as mine and I would expect to see a keyway running the length of the quill to stop it from rotating when being extended/retracted. In the second picture you can just see the keyway in the 6 o'clock position (to stop the quill rolling off) and the large bold at the front of the tailstock that acts as the key.
I doubt if there are any features the actually extend into the bore or the quill. If that is the case, I would find someone who could drill a hole through it, so that you can use a rod to eject the tool.
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(05-19-2017, 01:24 PM)f350ca Wrote: The end of the screw on the tailstock should hit the end of the morse taper and eject the centre or drill chuck when fully retracted.
(05-19-2017, 02:36 PM)Andy T Wrote: (05-19-2017, 01:24 PM)f350ca Wrote: The end of the screw on the tailstock should hit the end of the morse taper and eject the centre or drill chuck when fully retracted.
Nope, my talistock dosn't have this feature
Sorry Andy I didn't look at the photo, thats a different design.
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By its very nature, the screw will eject a drill or center when the quill is fully retracted. Take it apart and examine the length of the screw. It's possible the screw was damaged or modified for some reason that it no longer reaches far enough to contact the tang on MT tapers. The solution is to simply add a pin to the end of it to do the ejecting.
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That's a really unusual quill design Andy, I'm with Darren, it appears that it should have a through-hole from the rear- or, as Dr Stan suggested, a slot in the side of the quill, at the depth of the MT2 tool, to accept a wedge-shaped drift. Have you taken the quill all the way out and examined it?
I have a centre that is too short for my tailstock so that the screw doesn't reach to push it out- every time I use it and forget to put something behind it, I get it out by putting an open-end spanner behind the head of the centre and using it as a lever. This will work on any MT2 tool like a drill chuck or a live centre, but is not ideal.
If you do end up needing to modify the quill, I'd be boring a hole from the rear rather than a slot from the side- a drift from the rear could be used with the quill in any position, and even be left in the bore, whereas a wedge would necessitate extending the quill all the way every time.
It would be very strange if there was no facility built into the design for removing the taper though. 
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Thanks for the pics Andy - for me that has confirmed my thoughts and I think the best option would be to have someone drill a hole through the bore from the blind end.
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