09-17-2016, 02:57 PM
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Table for my mill
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09-19-2016, 07:12 PM
(07-06-2015, 08:01 AM)Pete O Wrote: Yet another reason why I should get a forklift. Do you need to disconnect the alternator before using it for a welding bench? hey pete o I know this replys abit old as I only started to read this thread this morning whn I had my exhaust an mech shop we had a lil setup called a matson anti zap .it looks like a very small jumper battery .it has two leads positive an neg comin from a 4inch x4 inch x 1 inch yellow box .all you do is connect to the battery on whatever your wlding on an it protects the whole elect system on the vechile ect I used it on anything I welded an never had an issues with batteries motors modules ect .b4 hand when the new electronic injected cars trucks ect came out I had to replace a few ecm in some cars .you can also buy it as a normal set of jumper leads only thing diff is it has the yellow module thingy an you have to put the leads on battery to battery the correct way ive seen ppl try jumper start their car only to fry the ecm ect as I said its a long time since this thread was started but thought id thow my 2 bobs worth cheers ron http://www.ozautoelectrics.com/power-man...ction.html
09-19-2016, 07:19 PM
that gunna be a big heavy table man I made my one from 2x2 x 1.6 thick stainless I had laying round the best thing I did was make a catch tray outta sheet the mill sits on it an it saves tryin to sweep under it plus now after usein the flycutter im goin to make a pull down Perspex shield 1/ to protect my eyes....2/ to stop all the lil slithers ect embedding themselves in my clothes ...3/ to protect my son while he watches me incase I stuff up lol ///4/ to stop all the waste going 15 feet from where im working
cant wait to see some other bits ya made or are making 
09-19-2016, 08:42 PM
The table won't be anywhere near as heavy as it was originally going to be. I was going to make it out of that 4" square tubing. That stuff's heavy! When this one's done I'll be using the hilo to put it in place.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop | the nobucks boutique 
09-20-2016, 09:26 AM
(09-19-2016, 08:42 PM)Vinny Wrote: When this one's done I'll be using the hilo to put it in place. Sorry Vinny, but every time I see this the only thing I can think of is  Thank goodness you don't have a scissor lift (that I know of), or I would really have to let you have it! 
Willie
09-20-2016, 05:18 PM
No scissor lift. I HATE heights!
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop | the nobucks boutique
09-24-2016, 06:39 PM
Ran out of daylight so this is as far as I got today.
![[Image: milltable1.jpg]](http://metalshop.nobucks.net/pix/milltable1.jpg) Hopefully that's far enough back so you can't see my crappy welds! I started using flux core 'cuze I'm doing this outside. Then I ran out of flux core, opened the side of the cabinet and there was a partial roll there so I switched them. Ran outta that one (there wasn't much) so I had to switch to mig wire and use the gas. Actually worked out pretty good but the feed started acting up near the end and was pulsating. When it was feeding steady I actually got some decent looking welds. Maybe tomorrow I can put the center piece in for the front of the mill and the pads on for the levelers. Then paint!
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop | the nobucks boutique
09-24-2016, 08:28 PM
When was the last time the liner was changed?
This is what I do to set my wire speed. Take a scrap piece of steel (same gauge as that which you are welding) and hold a weld in one position (i.e. keep the trigger on) whilst adjusting the wire speed with your other hand. Get it to where it 'sizzles'. If the weld sounds good it generally is good.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
09-24-2016, 08:37 PM
I'll try that. Neat trick!
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop | the nobucks boutique 
No guide on the door, below are a get you in the ball park suggested heat and wire speed settings.
Notice there are 4 boxes separated with bold black lines.. with 3 rows each. The bold boxes contain feed wire type and size of same. The top box ER70s-6 STEEL wire Gas mixture 75% Ar / 25% CO2 3 lines those are the wire sizes line#1....024 line#2....030 line#3....035 Second box ER70s-6 STEEL wire Gas Mixture 100% CO2 (same wire type but welds hotter, faster feed speed) 3 lines those are the wire sizes line#1....024 line#2....030 line#3....035 Third box FLUX CORE line#1.......030 line#2.......035 Forth box Stainless leaving that blank, for now left number is heat / right number wire feed speed Too set the feed rollers, miller suggest holding the torch at a piece of wood and pull the trigger. Tighten the force of the pinch so that the wire will curl when it meets the board, picture #9 Could the drag on the wire spool be to tight, and the wire is hesitating at the beginning. You should have instant wire feed pulling on the trigger. I could not for the life of me figure out what kind of a milling table you were talking about... I now can see grasshopper  Welds look cold, do not seem to wet out.. The lumps can be cause two ways, welding speed to slow across the joint, wire feed to fast, just some hints what to look for. When you practice, pay close attention to the welding puddle, you will see a red hot puddle, almost bubble like. It should start to flow outward, wetting. Welding reminds me of soldering, you heat the wire, the lead flows in and around, wetting the joint with solder. With a welder that is instant. Cheers greg
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