MetalworkingFun Forum › Machinery › Lathes v
Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild

Thread Modes
Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild
PixMan Offline
Resident Pariah
******
Posts: 2,344
Threads: 53
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Spencer MA USA
#11
07-05-2015, 08:39 PM
Mark,

I'm always happy to help. I only charge for materials I have to buy to get the job done plus shipping and would be happy to make another set like I did for Ed if you're aiming to alter the machine as he did. If not, I could try making the mating nut like the original. BTW, I don't have a follower rest to cut long threads like that so I just take it easy and make multiple passes to minimize any variation in pitch diameter.

Let me know what you wish to do.

Ken
Reply
Thanks given by:
EdK Offline
Whipping Boy
*******
Posts: 8,854
Threads: 318
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
#12
07-05-2015, 08:52 PM
Mark,

Check your lead screw against this drawing. It probably matches but better to be sure. Be aware that I added about 1" to the acme thread length so I could get more travel towards the rear of the lathe.

Ed


.pdf   leadscrew_05.pdf (Size: 33.23 KB / Downloads: 5)
Reply
Thanks given by:
turbo711 Offline
Sophmore
***
Posts: 58
Threads: 5
Joined: Jul 2015
Location: London Ontario Canada
#13
07-06-2015, 10:11 PM
Hello PixMan and Edk. I checked my lead screw against the drawing and mine seems to be the same except for the shouldered area beside the acme thread. I then proceeded to the garage for a closer look. I have cleaned the slides from the saddle up, but I haven't got to the apron and the gears therein. It seems someone has drilled another hole in my lead screw to enable flipping or reposition the drive gear. Upon further inspection, no matter the gear orientation or hole position, the pressure from the axial thrust bearings is exerted upon the twin locknuts and the roll pin that keeps the gear from turning. The shouldered area is irrelevant. But it should be. I am going to clean the apron gears and see where the drive gear should be mating and take some measurements. I probably won't fab up a pro drawing like Edk, but I can pencil it out on paper and scan it. This probably won't happen until the weekend. Thank-you.
Mark
Reply
Thanks given by:
dallen Offline
Senior
*****
Posts: 1,827
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Oklahoma
#14
07-07-2015, 08:54 AM (This post was last modified: 07-07-2015, 08:55 AM by dallen.)
the image you posted I can't read the number on,

The gear that is worn out on you lathe has angled teeth on it and is pretty simple to actually make, after the last one I put in my lathe ended up looking like the one in the photo I made one out of something a little more wear resistant. You can see the worn out one in the photo.
   

The U shaped bracket that holds the worm in place in this next photo you can see where its cracked by the hole in the corner of the bracket

   

you can get the shafts off of the bed by removing the roll pins from the change gear box end, the block on the tail end should just slip off the shafts,

The leadscrew (top one) should have a setscrew in it that will have to be loosened so you can slide the cover back to access the pin in it.

I would put something soft that will shear for a pin in these especially the one for the carriage feed.

if you need or want I can get the part number for the gear off of grizzly where I've ordered it before.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by:
dallen Offline
Senior
*****
Posts: 1,827
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Oklahoma
#15
07-07-2015, 12:01 PM
I just remembered something that I did was to make up an oil line so that I could use a oil can to oil the carriage feed worm gear by giving it a squirt every now and then when using the lathe. Reason I did this was because the way my lathe was setup to actually lube the drive was by weeping oil out of the apron onto the Bronze gear, which didn't seem to do a very good job of lubing something that runs all the time, and the poor lubrication is probably the reason that yours and my gears look the way they do.

.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by:
EdK Offline
Whipping Boy
*******
Posts: 8,854
Threads: 318
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
#16
07-07-2015, 04:07 PM
(07-06-2015, 10:11 PM)turbo711 Wrote: I probably won't fab up a pro drawing like Edk, but I can pencil it out on paper and scan it. This probably won't happen until the weekend. Thank-you.
Mark

Mark,

If you want to mark up my drawing and send it to me I can create the "pro drawing" for you.

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:
turbo711 Offline
Sophmore
***
Posts: 58
Threads: 5
Joined: Jul 2015
Location: London Ontario Canada
#17
07-07-2015, 07:32 PM
Man, you guys are awesome. Super helpful.

Edk, I'll get the measurements done this weekend, and thanks for the drawing offer.

Dallen, that part is still on the shaft attached to the base. Sure I'll take the part# for the gear. If I can't obtain the part locally, I'll have backup.

In the mean time, here are some pics of what's happening. I cleaned thick sludge and rust for 2 days. Back to work tomorrow.

[Image: cleanedCarriageParts.jpg?dl=0]

And the "Dark Reality" of the project...

[Image: TheDarkReality.jpg?dl=0]

I found more problems. The split nut carriers are broken on the corners. Probably from pushing down the lever with too much force.
I might try to put my newly acquired Ammco 7" shaper to use on these and try to insert a steel piece to prevent it from happening again, if I can figure out how to use it :)

[Image: brokenSplitNutCarriers.jpg?dl=0]

And a better view of the driven worm drive gear:


[Image: wormDriven.jpg?dl=0]

Here is the mostly assembled apron after dismantling, cleaning and inspection. The several off center roll pins that hold some gears and controls are demoralizing to re-assemble...


[Image: CleanedApronFront.jpg?dl=0]
[Image: CleanedApronBack.jpg?dl=0]

Another small issue is the handles. I would like to take them apart without wrecking them. The rusted one with the gap drives me nuts. Anyone ever take one apart?

[Image: handles.jpg?dl=0]

That's it for now.
Reply
Thanks given by:
EdK Offline
Whipping Boy
*******
Posts: 8,854
Threads: 318
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
#18
07-07-2015, 07:43 PM
You're doing a good job cleaning it up Mark. Thumbsup

That will be nice lathe for you once it's all done. I see you don't have a sight glass on the apron like mine does. You could always attach a piece of steel on the bottom to seal it up and put a sight glass in so you can fill it up with oil.

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:
turbo711 Offline
Sophmore
***
Posts: 58
Threads: 5
Joined: Jul 2015
Location: London Ontario Canada
#19
07-07-2015, 08:33 PM
Thanks Ed. I thought of that exact idea while cleaning it. The oil would leak out of the lowest shaft, but it might help keep it from accumulating garbage. How is yours sealed,and do you still pump oil into little ball oil fittings like mine?

Mark
Reply
Thanks given by:
dallen Offline
Senior
*****
Posts: 1,827
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Oklahoma
#20
07-07-2015, 08:46 PM (This post was last modified: 07-07-2015, 08:47 PM by dallen.)
I'll do some digging around on grizzly tomorrow and dig up the part number from the part from them. I know they sell in Canada under a different name
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 6 Guest(s)