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05-28-2012, 10:06 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-30-2012, 06:52 PM by PixMan.)
Being that I have a motorcycle rally event to attend next weekend, I was short on time to order a mount for my Garmin Zumo 550 nav/sat unit to put on my new motorcycle. Plus, why would I buy a unit for $80 or even a couple of parts for $30, when I can make my own for the relative value of a couple hundred dollars?
The two pieces I made are shown in the first photo. The base plate fastened to the handlbar clamps. Screwed to the plate at a 15º angle is the 5" long ball-end post. I don't have a ball turner, but did find I had a 3/4" HSS grooving tool bit that had been ground with a nearly-perfect 1/2 radius. With a couple of repositioning moves of the tool, I got a very round, smooth ball shape. I may someday make a ball turning attachment...but I really doubt I'm motivated enough. ;)
This is the view of the unit assembled, from the rider position.
This is likely just temporary. I may be adding a taller windscreen, so if I do the GPS unit may go above the instruments and be nearer the same eye-to-subject distance. As it is now, I rely upon the GPS as my speedometer (more accurate) and also as a more accurate fuel gauge, so I don't need more than an occasional glance at the tachometer (rev counter.)
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hi yep a good mod
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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(05-28-2012, 10:06 PM)PixMan Wrote: ...I don't need more than an occasional glance at the tachometer (rev counter.)
Glance? That is what your ears are for!
Good to see you on the tools and making stuff - nice job.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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Paul Jr., eat your heart out...
Willie
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Thanks guys. Some on a motorcycle site think its dangerous to have that "solid metal ball" sticking up like that.
I had to explain to the non-metalworking oriented that the M6 x 1.0 stainless steel socket head cap screw holding the post to the plate would just strip out and separate the two pieces in the event of a mishap. Plus, the top of that ball is about an inch below the hardcase tank bag. That makes it fairly hard to "get to".
Paul Jr? At least his guy Vinnie has some degree of intelligence. The crew at his dad's place (Jim in the machine shop excepted) are nearly-complete morons. Both companies build beautiful rubbish. They put far more dangerous crap on their bikes with nary a thought about safety. You should see the top of the fuel tank on the Gillette "Fusion Razor" bike sitting in the lobby of Gillette headquarters in South Boston. Want shredded gonads, anyone?
I know a fellow in Connecticut who bought one of the OCC bikes. He had gotten halfway along the 80 mile ride home with it when it died from some electrical failure. (Something shook loose.) No warranty, he was stuck. No wiring diagrams, they do it "by heart". He had to get the bike flat bedded out, and it cost him $475 for an independent mechanic to find and fix the problem.
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Ken,
Nicely done
Looks good
DaveH
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Thanks Dave.
There's actually far more work into than may appear from those photos. On the bottom side of the plate the area around the two mounting holes (clearance of M8 x 1.25 SHCS) are raised bosses to sit inside the counterbores of the handlebar clamps. It was the first time my dad's 10" vert/horiz Yuasa rotary table had been used, and it's almost 10 years old!
Mayhem, I do glance at the revs, but only when I'm really winding it up. Technically I'm still on break-in miles, so I want to stay under certain RPM ranges.
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I had to delete the photos from my Photobucket account.
On a particular model=specific motorcycle site, I kept getting negative comments from riders who clearly know NOTHING about the strength of metals. Those people seemed to think it was a dangerous thing. My description of there being less than 2mm (.078") of metal between the bottom of the counterbore for the head of the M6 socket head cap screw to act as the failure point in the event of a crash wasn't enough to satisfy those who felt I was endangering the family jewels.
Mind you, I calculated the failure to be less than 6Kg of force, the post doesn't extend above the top of the tank bag, and the tank bag is always in front of the assembly. Moreover, the commercially made alternative is made of sturdy STEEL, has no advertized failure point, is wider than mine and sits higher than mine.
But they know it all.
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(05-30-2012, 07:01 PM)PixMan Wrote: But they know it all.
Ken,
There's a lot of that on the internet.
You can attach the pictures to a post in this thread if you'd like.
Ed
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Actually I think if Vinnie and Rick teamed up again (on their own) they would put the hurt on BOTH the "Paul's".
But yes, I've seen all the razor sharp edges, and the very pointy things stuck in all the wrong places on those bikes. Running the exhaust pipes under and along side the seat is always a nice touch too. But it gets better TV ratings from all the Jesse James wanna-be's out there I guess.
You think those guys in the
bike forums are bad for know-it-all's?
AMATEURS!
Willie
