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I'm sitting here looking at the bench I have my mill, mini-lathe and toolbox on. The two heaviest items are at the extreme sides (mill and toolbox) and the middle is getting a real bad bow. More towards the mill from center. I've already glued and screwed another 2x4 behind the front but the bow continues to get worse. Slowed down since the extra 2x4 was added but still happening. I could add another leg and may for a temp solution but I've come to the decision that that bench has got to go.
That brings me to my question. I need to make a table for the mill. I don't know the exact weight but I guestimate it's between 350 and 500 lbs based on the colors our faces were turning trying to get it into the back of my Durango. I was thinking of using 2" square tubing for the legs and 2" angle for the top frame and intermediate frames for shelving below for tooling, etc.
Will 2x2x1/8" angle be too light for this or do I need to go heavier?
Thanks!!
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Vinny,
I think it depends on the design of the bench. For the top, may I suggest two layers of 3/4" plywood? That's what I have my 750lb mill on and no sagging after 8 years. My stand is made out of 2x6s, 2x4s, some angle iron (I think it's 1/4" thick) and the plywood top.
I'm sure you'll get lots of advise.
Ed
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Can't have a solid top, learned that the hard way. The screw for the knee height will extend below the bottom of the mill when it's down more than half way. Before I bolted it down I cranked it down and wondered why it was leaning backward. It didn't occur to me that the screw was sticking out the bottom until I looked under it. It's sitting on 3/4 ply on top of 3/4 particle board.
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The following 1 user Likes stevec's post:
Mike E. (09-25-2016)
(05-01-2015, 05:43 PM)Vinny Wrote: Will 2x2x1/8" angle be too light for this or do I need to go heavier?
Thanks!!
Vinny, my 50 years of "experience by failure" has taught me that the material you have on hand will be just shy of what's needed.
Most of my stuff I've made has been overbuilt and it has always been adequate.
Steve
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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I'll be buying material for this project. If I used what I have on hand it'd be less than 6" tall.
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(05-01-2015, 06:06 PM)Vinny Wrote: Can't have a solid top, learned that the hard way. The screw for the knee height will extend below the bottom of the mill when it's down more than half way. Before I bolted it down I cranked it down and wondered why it was leaning backward. It didn't occur to me that the screw was sticking out the bottom until I looked under it. It's sitting on 3/4 ply on top of 3/4 particle board.
It doesn't have to be solid. I have a cut-out in the middle of mine to access the Y lead screw nut.
Ed
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I took a hole saw to allow the screw to go below the bench here, so I just want to make the table all steel and solid enuf to make sure I don't have those odd problems.
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Vinny,
Is it possible to make a hole for the knee screw, a solid top will help with the rigidity.
DaveH
PS too late you had already posted
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05-02-2015, 08:47 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-02-2015, 08:55 AM by Sunset Machine.)
I have a largish mill/drill sitting on a simple stand made of bed frame angles. Works well enough. Originally it sat on a huge block of concrete. Framed it up with a bunch of junk (bricks, etc) in the middle to save on pre-mix. Way overkill.
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Four posts of box section with angle iron rails will be more than strong enough. I would add a second set of rails which will ensure that the legs remain where you intend them to be and give the added bonus of a shelf.
Of course, the quality of the welds are the important thing.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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