04-11-2015, 01:18 PM
Love the bench top Greg. 
Ed
Ed
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 Thanks given by: f350ca
04-11-2015, 01:31 PM
Very nice ........... I have one the same also 3 tons only in blue.
 DaveH 
04-11-2015, 03:07 PM
So that is what a bench top looks like? I don't remember...
 Do yourself a favor Greg and mill off the two bottom teeth on that rack, so you don't have to fight the handle position all of the time. 
Willie
04-11-2015, 04:36 PM
I have an arbor press of about the same size. If you mill a couple of teeth off, doesn't that cut the working range of the tool?
I haven't used mine much but never really noticed having any trouble with the position of the handle. I might think it wouldn't be such a big deal to pull the pinion and reposition it if I needed maximum leverage sometime. In fact, I might be able to re-engineer that for quick indexing. 
04-11-2015, 04:51 PM
be simpler to just reclock the pinon so the handle is where you want it when its raised all the way up
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! 
04-11-2015, 05:03 PM
Or replace the handle with a wheel.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop | the nobucks boutique 
04-11-2015, 05:33 PM
Thought you'd appreciate the bench top Ed. Never got a picture so I guess it never happened (still having trouble believing it myself), the young lad came out this morn and washed down the big lathe with solvent, then cleaned up the chip pan of the Hardinge and wiped it down. I need sun glasses out there now.
Read an article somewhere Willie about taking a couple of teeth off. There is a cheap collar with a set screw to hold the pinion in, wonder about drilling through for a safety pin that would allow easy removal and clocking.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
04-11-2015, 06:29 PM
(04-11-2015, 05:33 PM)f350ca Wrote: There is a cheap collar with a set screw to hold the pinion in, wonder about drilling through for a safety pin that would allow easy removal and clocking. The same guy that made yours must have made mine. I had to make a new collar with two set screws. The original collar tilted over on tightening it down so it was either too tight or too loose. From that one can get to the can-can  DaveH
04-11-2015, 08:47 PM
(04-11-2015, 04:36 PM)PixMan Wrote: I have an arbor press of about the same size. If you mill a couple of teeth off, doesn't that cut the working range of the tool? You are correct Ken. It will cut about an inch from the top of the working range, with the ram all the way up. I think the idea is that you don't use the full stroke most of the time, unless you are working on some really long shafts, etc., with regularly and need the full height of the press frame. David, the issue isn't the handle position when it's full up. It's when the ram is down on the work which changes in height depending on your work, and changes the handle position. You want the best position and max leverage you can get of course when it's time to start pulling on the handle. Sure you can pull the pinion and reposition it to accomplish the same thing every time. It just seems easier to me to raise the ram back up and let it click a couple of teeth and the come right back down instead of having to disassemble the pinion. Vinny, it would need to be an awfully big wheel to get the leverage needed on the pinion. A pipe roller comes to mind. It was just a suggestion. But that is why I bought a ratcheting press to begin with, so I can ignore all of that. 
Willie
04-11-2015, 08:56 PM
Wish I could have found a used ratcheted one Willie, it wasn't for lack of trying but figured I'd be dead before one came along.
I've yet to use a broach to cut keyways, but wouldn't you need all the stoke you could get for them.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg |
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