03-13-2015, 02:02 PM
|
Log Splitter
|
03-13-2015, 02:18 PM
Thanks Greg,
So after I finish at 2, I start to weld from 5 to 3 remembering to clean up the tack at 3 ......... is this correct.  DaveH 
03-13-2015, 03:27 PM
Dave, if I were in your shoes I would go with a 2.5mm electrode in something equivalent to our 6010 rods. Not too much penetration, and it is a "fast freeze" electrode which means the weld puddle solidifies quickly and helps prevent burn through. And give your material a few minutes to cool down a bit in between each bead you lay down, to prevent too much heat from building up in your parts.
But since I'm in MY shoes, I would TIG it.  Disclaimer: I am not a professional welder, nor do I play one on TV or the interwebs. Use your own best judgement, grain of salt, etc., etc., etc. 
Willie
03-13-2015, 04:06 PM
(03-13-2015, 03:27 PM)Highpower Wrote: But since I'm in MY shoes, I would TIG it. Thanks Willie, If I had a TIG I would also TIG it  I find welding long beads troublesome. Can I weld a tack at 8 and 4 and then weld up to the tack, stop and have a rest I might find that a little easier for me. DaveH 
03-13-2015, 04:11 PM
Dave,
Use MIG. You know how well it works for me.  Ed
03-13-2015, 04:13 PM
03-13-2015, 04:15 PM
Thanks given by: DaveH
03-13-2015, 04:43 PM
(03-13-2015, 02:18 PM)DaveH Wrote: Thanks Greg, 2 is in the middle of a side, i'd try to do the sides in continuous passes. If you need to stop to change rods, scratch you're ear whatever, clean up the end of the weld with a thin disk to be sure there's no slag to leave a pin hole. Or 3 to 5, just going around the cap, once its tacked it should stay flat.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg |
|
« Next Oldest | Next Newest »
|
plus you all have a lot more experience with welding than I do. 
Users browsing this thread: 7 Guest(s)