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Yes - Ken makes it all look so easy when you are there. Then you get home and try and piece it all together, and you forget half of what he showed you, even though he took his time and explained it very well. It was only the other day that I remembered how he showed me how to do the chamfer on the back of the thread when putting in a relief groove.
Nice job - I look forward to seeing the finished repair.
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The pin hole would cause me more concern than the threads. I'd have used the sequence of cross drilling first, see if it fits the knob, cutoff, then thread. Matters not a lot in this case, but little things like that can scrap parts. Much better to cutoff a misplaced hole than have to scrap the threading too.
As to stickout, I use an actual rule of thumb. That is, I push the end of the workpiece with my thumb. If it moves it's no good, needs better support. 
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Highpower (01-24-2015)
(01-24-2015, 09:01 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: The pin hole would cause me more concern than the threads. I'd have used the sequence of cross drilling first, see if it fits the knob, cutoff, then thread. Matters not a lot in this case, but little things like that can scrap parts. Much better to cutoff a misplaced hole than have to scrap the threading too.
Boy, you are so right! I just drilled the hole. Since my mill is down, I had to use my drill press. The stock I used was drill rod, and it is HARD! I cranked up my drill press up to and advertised 3100 rpms and used a 5 flute carbide end mill. I finished it off with a roll pin.
Thanks for watching. I know this is much to do about a small repair, but all in good fun. 
![[Image: 20150124_112359_zpsncqpo1jp.jpg]](http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb28/mike-sid/Fraken%20mill%20repair/20150124_112359_zpsncqpo1jp.jpg)
![[Image: 20150124_112353_zpsiss01k9f.jpg]](http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb28/mike-sid/Fraken%20mill%20repair/20150124_112353_zpsiss01k9f.jpg)
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Highpower (01-24-2015)
Mike - the size of the job is insignificant. Its the quality of the workmanship and being able to do the work ourselves that matters.
Nice job.
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I'd get rid of that roll pin and make (yeppers!) one from solid.
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(01-25-2015, 10:30 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: I'd get rid of that roll pin and make (yeppers!) one from solid.
or IMHO better yet use a taper pin. You will need to use a taper pin reamer (beg, borrow, buy, or midnight requisition).
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(01-25-2015, 10:32 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: (01-25-2015, 10:30 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: I'd get rid of that roll pin and make (yeppers!) one from solid.
or IMHO better yet use a taper pin. You will need to use a taper pin reamer (beg, borrow, buy, or midnight requisition).
Ok ok. Good point guys. Even though the roll pin will take the hand tight pressure, you are right. I was in Sears hardware and bought an assortment of taper pins and see if I have the right size reamer or buy one. I don't want to be a hack, and do the job right.
What I kind or reamer will work on drill rod?
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The advantage of the taper pin is that one doesn't have to fiddle with tolerances for "press fits" and the like. Ream with the right reamer and smack the right taper pin in and you're good to go.
(after trimming the ends of the taper pin I like to centre punch the small end of the pin so that down the road I can punch it out if need be.)
Steve
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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EdK (01-27-2015)
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PixMan (01-27-2015)
Looks like a bought one.
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![[Image: 20150124_112353_zpsiss01k9f.jpg]](http://s204.photobucket.com/user/mike-sid/media/Fraken%20mill%20repair/20150124_112353_zpsiss01k9f.jpg.html)
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