07-20-2014, 09:58 AM (This post was last modified: 07-20-2014, 10:16 AM by Sunset Machine.)
I'm finally making friends with a shaper. It's an oldie, 1910 or so. Had it two years now, just holding the floor down. Finished the RPC last weekend, hardwired and hanging from the wall. Ready to make chips. The goal is keyways and internal splines.
Much to learn - Rule #1, the clapper isn't supposed to clap. Go slow. The ram should move slow enough to read and adjust the dial. It isn't supposed to make yellow chips and don't let it hit you in the nose.
Rule #2, mine feeds best at the beginning of the stroke, with the work coming towards the control side. Add about 2 inches of stroke for this to take place.
Other rules to be developed. This thing reminds me of a goat for some reason.
I'm using a right hand lathe bit, one that cuts towards the tailstock. It has a rounded nose, about 1/16 radius. Minimal rake, DOC has been .025 with the feed set as fine as it goes for a worn out antique (couple clicks of the pawl); the chips are rather thick. Obviously more to learn here as the feed is quite aggressive, as if shallow cuts (as in a DOC of .005, the minimum dial graduations) with a broadnosed tool is expected.
Looking for a Dummy's Guide to Shapers. Obligatory pic attached.
I'd say that about the right size of vice for the machine. BTW, learned how to run shapers and planners in the USN. Chapter 12 of the US Navy's Machinery Repairman 2 & 3 has a fair amount of information on shapers and one can download the entire document from: http://eric.ed.gov/?id=ED203130
Yes, that 13" vice weighs about 300 lbs judging by how far the car settled with the vice in the trunk/boot. The hoist tells me it weighs more, but I think it just likes to complain.
The shaper table gib is on its last legs, it pulls up to snug and is all the way up as far as it can go. Also found some weirdness I didn't expect - the table has sagged, but sagged upwards instead of down, about +.015 front to back. The vice is shimmed with paper for now.
Looking at some videos, their DOC is as much as 2 inches. I'd need to take some slop out of the feed mechanism to accomplish anything like that. Could have used it a couple months ago.
Definitely different to run than the other machines. Turn it on and all this "stuff" starts moving, and moving fast and sudden. It'll getcha if you don't watch out!
I have that one and a few others. They're all good, but I still need a dumber book..
The scrap piece I'm practicing on is rather hard. Looks old, has cracks folded in from the steel mill. Rather poor quality I think, but it's been beat on hard enough to mushroom one end a bit. I suspect it's quite a bit older than the shaper.
I'll know more about shapers after I turn it into chips.
God I love shapers....:) The most common job on mine was when I fitted a QCTP to the lathe, and then the many tool holders that were required. I didn't pay much for mine, but given the amount of dovetails I have now cut, and all the dovetail cutters I haven't had to buy, I'm guessing the whole shaper is now paid for in savings...... :)
With regards to you table issue, once you find out why (if possible), the shaper should be able to 'heal' itself..... a face cut off the table.... but like I said, if it were mine, I'd like to know why it happened, and fix it if at all possible.
I hope you enjoy yours, I find it simply mesmerizing..... supposedly a machine you can set up and then get on and do other things....nope..I usually stand there watching.....watching.....watching......
Cheers
Rob
Artie, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jul 1962.
(07-20-2014, 09:58 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: Looking for a Dummy's Guide to Shapers. Obligatory pic attached.
Sunset,
Here's a copy of South Bend's "How to Run a Metal Working Shaper". I scanned it a while back and am hosting it on my server (so it's "safe" to download).
It's more aimed at the SB shaper but it covers the basics (just like How to Run a Lathe).
Hope you find it useful,
-Ron
11" South Bend lathe - Wells-Index 860C mill - 16" Queen City Shaper
Here's a question for you. I'm assuming it's a crank-type shaper. Open the door over the gear drive and watch which way the gear turns. It should turn clockwise when seen from that side. This will result in the ram moving out slower than it retracts. If it's turning backward, swap any two wires feeding the motor.
If the table is advancing when the ram is coming out, there may be something not set up properly. The table will normally advance while the ram is retracting.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
Mine did and someday it will again.