Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head

Pages (9): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Next »

Thread Modes

Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Grizzly G0519

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-03-2012, 09:50 PM

Guys,

Two days ago I started to repair my Grizzly G0519 which leaks oil from the quill. The G0519 is similar to a RF-45 Mill. My work is based on the thread by EdAK found here:

http://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=157

The consensus was that you all wanted to see my photos in addition to the work Ed has been doing on his Enco RF-45.

My mill is 3 years old and started leaking small amounts of oil from the end of the quill through the bearing there. I've put up with it for about a year but was inspired by Ed's work to fix it.

Henry Arnold

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-03-2012, 10:04 PM (This post was last modified: 05-03-2012, 10:08 PM by henryarnold.)

Here's a photo of my mill just before removal and dissassembly of the head.

In order to remove the head on my mill I have to run it all the way to top of the Z travel so I can release the tension on the gas springs.

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-03-2012, 10:16 PM (This post was last modified: 05-04-2012, 12:14 PM by henryarnold.)

I removed the quill spring return first. Be careful while doing this because it can spin and injure you. Loosen the nut on the end but don't remove it until you release the tension. Back the housing off its notched pin and then with a firm grip slowly unwind the tension. The spring attaches to the downfeed spindle with a slot over a flat head screw. You'll have to jiggle it around to get it to release. The photo should help.

Here are the parts from the quill spring return plus the guide pin for the quill housing which must also be removed. The plate has 3 screws holding it to the head.

IMPORTANT: Lock your quill before going to the next step because it can fall out when you remove the down feed mechanism which is the only thing holding it in place.

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-03-2012, 10:24 PM

You should be able to witdraw the downfeed handle and its spindle. Make sure your quill is locked before your remove the downfeed.

Now you can remove the fine Z axis assembly. There are two bolts holding it in place.

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-03-2012, 10:28 PM (This post was last modified: 05-03-2012, 10:34 PM by henryarnold.)

Remove the speed selector knobs and the depth gauge pointer

Remove the front panel's six screws.

I was incorrect about the quill falling out. It can't fall out until you remove the the depth stop mechanism shown in the above photo. This is removed by releasing the cotter pin, pulling the stop block and then unscrewing the barrel on the bottom of the head.

This is all for today. I have more photos but I'll wait until tomorrow to post some more.

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post

EdK

Whipping Boy

Posts: 8,859
Threads: 319
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota

05-04-2012, 06:28 AM

Henry,

Thanks for posting your head rebuild adventure.

I would like to add one tip. Put a piece of wood on the table so if the quill does drop down on you it will hit the wood and not the cast iron table. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood the approximate size of the table to help protect the table while doing the head rebuild. Then I put a piece of 2x6 on top of the plywood directly underneath the quill to absorb the shock if the quill happened to drop down on me.

Ed

Like Post

DaveH

Child of the 60's

Posts: 4,513
Threads: 139
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Kempton Park. South Africa

05-04-2012, 08:15 AM

Henry,

Nice start, well photographed

DaveH

Like Post

DanH

Sophmore

Posts: 157
Threads: 18
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Damascus, Or

05-04-2012, 11:56 AM

Henry,

Thanks for adding your writeup. The extra information and pictures will help if I have to do this someday down the road.

Also, please consider doing a detailed writeup on your power z-axis drive. I added the gas spring to my mill and plan on doing some type of z-axis drive at some point.

Dan

Collecting tools for 30 years.

Like Post

henryarnold Offline

Sophmore

Posts: 170
Threads: 9
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Southern California

05-04-2012, 12:12 PM

(05-04-2012, 06:28 AM)EdAK Wrote: Henry,

Thanks for posting your head rebuild adventure.

I would like to add one tip. Put a piece of wood on the table so if the quill does drop down on you it will hit the wood and not the cast iron table. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood the approximate size of the table to help protect the table while doing the head rebuild. Then I put a piece of 2x6 on top of the plywood directly underneath the quill to absorb the shock if the quill happened to drop down on me.

Ed

Good suggestion. I also forgot to drain the oil out before starting disassembly. I had to do it after the head was off the mill.

henryarnold, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

Like Post