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On a tip from my mentor I called Starrett to ask about refurbishing this micrometer. The estimate came back at over 3 times the purchase price (although I have nothing out of pocket right now). I talked to a technician and he gave me another disassembly tip that I can try this evening. I need to unscrew the ratchet stem to remove the thimble. Maybe this will do the trick. When/if I get it apart I'll throw up some more pictures.
JScott, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Mar 2014.
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04-28-2014, 12:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-28-2014, 12:17 PM by awemawson.)
If after that it's still stuck, seal it in your Kroil in a zip bag and stick it in a drawer and forget it for a few month - then just maybe over a protracted time it'll work its way in and free it.
I was struggling today to remove the inner of a bearing from a 35mm shaft on my tractor mounted flail mower, and ended up having to burn it off with oxy-acetylene. Lets hope you don't have to go to those dramatic measures :)
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
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Any update on this micrometer? I'm curious to know if it works now because I've never seen a micrometer looking that nice being so very frozen.
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(05-16-2014, 06:26 AM)PixMan Wrote: Any update on this micrometer? I'm curious to know if it works now because I've never seen a micrometer looking that nice being so very frozen.
It is still solid. I have soaked it, heated it, frozen it and even tried turning the spindle from the ratchet end with soft jaw pliers. Like you I am dumbfounded that it can be locked up on the inside and look so good on the outside. The lock ring turns freely as does the ratchet. Starrett said for $90 they could rebuild it but I only gave about $30 for it (which was refunded by the seller on eBay).
At this point I can either keep it for parts or send it to a friend in Colorado that wants to take a shot at it. In the meantime I am watching for another one.
JScott, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Mar 2014.
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For $90.00 send it to Starrett and let them rebuild it that is what I would do.
Good luck
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(04-25-2014, 03:50 AM)Highpower Wrote: (04-22-2014, 11:29 AM)JScott Wrote: ........
Now, my question is, what can I do with it? I have not tried to force it other than trying to turn it by hand. My first idea is to soak it in a penetrating oil such as automatic transmission fluid for a few weeks to see if that will help to free it up. I'm looking for suggestions to rehabilitate this mic although I don't know if it will still have precision if I do get it turning again.
Thanks in advance for the advice and help I know is coming.
Do you by chance own, or have access to an ultrasonic cleaner? Warm water and Simple Green could work wonders on any dried up oil and the vibration just might work loose a stuck spindle lock. I would try that before any electrolysis. JMHO.
This is exactly what I thought of when reading the thread. The others are correct in that reverse electrolysis will not work due to the need for line of sight and it will not be possible to get the electrolyte solution between the threads.
The little ultrasonic units are fairly cheap and you could fill it with the acetone/brake fluid mix and leave it work overnight. Just have it where it will not be exposed to heat/flame/ etc.
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Last time I checked the mike was still frozen. Other projects have been keeping me occupied. I'll check it again this weekend.
I may have access to a small ultrasonic cleaner. I have quite a bit of Ed's Red bore cleaner which is a mix of equal parts of kerosene, acetone, mineral spirits and automatic transmission fluid. If it doesn't loosen up with a soak in that there may be no hope.
Thanks guys.
JScott, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Mar 2014.
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May I suggest, as a last resort, my favorite carburetor cleaning method: dissolve a fair bit of laundry detergent into a pot of boiling water, and simmer whatever it is you're trying to clean for 1/2 to 1 hour. This will dissolve any hardened grease, loosen any baked on filth, and remove any ancient varnish from a carb, I imagine it will do the same for a mic. It might even remove the paint.
