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Ken,
OK, I did my best to get a proper center height for the lead screw. I figure I can either shim it or skim it if it's off.
I did not draw the threads for the mounting screws. I'll use a transfer punch to locate them and drill and tap them myself. I think it'll be more accurate that way.
The location and size of the slit is based off of the existing nut which may not be correctly designed so go ahead and use your best judgement in machining this feature. I also didn't draw the threads for the set screw for adjusting the slit to remove backlash so you can use your best judgement again.
Let me know if I've missed something on the drawing.
Thanks Ken!
Ed
nut_01.pdf (Size: 9.32 KB / Downloads: 7)
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Thanks Ed. I'll get one it as soon as I get done with painting my living room/dining room (big L-shaped room.) Should be a quick job to knock out.
With a 10 TPI thread, you have barely 2-1/2 threads in that "adjustment" section. Most nuts like that I'd seen split in the middle so the halves wear evenly. I would also split it through the entire thread. Where is the adjuster on the original and how would you feel about having a cone point set screw coming through the cross slide casting instead of the hard-to-reach position of the original?
Also, how about radii on the upper corners as the original has? I've got corner rounding cutters, so it's easy.
Posts: 8,854
Threads: 318
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Location: Arizona/Minnesota
(04-27-2014, 07:31 PM)PixMan Wrote: Thanks Ed. I'll get one it as soon as I get done with painting my living room/dining room (big L-shaped room.) Should be a quick job to knock out.
With a 10 TPI thread, you have barely 2-1/2 threads in that "adjustment" section. Most nuts like that I'd seen split in the middle so the halves wear evenly. I would also split it through the entire thread. Where is the adjuster on the original and how would you feel about having a cone point set screw coming through the cross slide casting instead of the hard-to-reach position of the original?
Also, how about radii on the upper corners as the original has? I've got corner rounding cutters, so it's easy.
Ken,
Slitting in the middle is no problem. I don't think the way the current nut is slit is a very good design because the slit only goes half way into the thread.
The adjuster is on the end of the nut facing the rear of the lathe. It's kind of hard to get to but not impossible. I don't have a problem with putting a set screw through the cross slide as long as it doesn't land in the spot where I took out that knurled bushing. I'm not visualizing how it would work though. Can you post a quick sketch as to how it would adjust the slit?
Radii on the upper corners would be nice.
By the way, while I was laying in bed last night trying to get to sleep, I realized I measured the center height improperly so a new drawing will be coming.
Ed
Sorry about the crummy pictures but I was in a hurry.
