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oldgoaly (08-24-2013)
I have almost completed my version of a Digital Height Gage. It is based on several builds, but the basis is an unmodified Digital Vernier Caliper. I wanted to be able to remove the Digital Vernier and use it on its own.
This is the chunk of Cast Iron I was having issues with getting under the skin.
My build is based on a combination of versions by Frank McLean, Paul Pierce, and David Graves. Its not quite finished as I dont have the material to make the scribe point. My local Fastenal supposedly has 1/8 drill rod. I will post more pictures when its complete.
Pics here: http://s571.photobucket.com/user/chucket...ght%20Gage
Ive noticed that handling the cast iron base still makes my fingers and anything else that touches it black. What finishes do you folks put on machined cast iron?
Chuck
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wipe it with a rag soaked in some paint thinner, should get rid of the graphite, Cast Iron dust is a Bi%^h to clean up, gets on everything. how were you able to get under the things skin??
you can use the back end of a 1/8 inch drill bit if you only need a short piece.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! 
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(08-10-2013, 07:54 AM)dallen Wrote: wipe it with a rag soaked in some paint thinner, should get rid of the graphite, Cast Iron dust is a Bi%^h to clean up, gets on everything. how were you able to get under the things skin??
you can use the back end of a 1/8 inch drill bit if you only need a short piece.
Thanks dallen, I'll try the paint thinner.
I got under the skin with a new 1/2 cheapie 4 flute end mill, after figuring out I was running the mill waaaaay to fast. Set RPM down around 450 and a slow power feed on the X axis. My feeds and speeds chart I use for guidance didn't have Cast Iron listed and I was trying to use the steel speeds.
Chuck
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Chuck, another good material for scribers is music wire, from your local hobby shop. That's what I used. I tapered the ends on a grinder, then heated just the ends with a torch and quenched in oil. I just left it full hard.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
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08-10-2013, 10:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-10-2013, 10:01 PM by dallen.)
(08-10-2013, 08:00 AM)chucketn Wrote: (08-10-2013, 07:54 AM)dallen Wrote: wipe it with a rag soaked in some paint thinner, should get rid of the graphite, Cast Iron dust is a Bi%^h to clean up, gets on everything. how were you able to get under the things skin??
you can use the back end of a 1/8 inch drill bit if you only need a short piece.
Thanks dallen, I'll try the paint thinner.
I got under the skin with a new 1/2 cheapie 4 flute end mill, after figuring out I was running the mill waaaaay to fast. Set RPM down around 450 and a slow power feed on the X axis. My feeds and speeds chart I use for guidance didn't have Cast Iron listed and I was trying to use the steel speeds.
Chuck
get a bucket if you don't have one to toss all them broken dull and mistreated cutters and drill bits into cause they come in handy all the time to make things out of like them special one flute endmills you can't buy.
DA
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Chuck,
Rather than use a round scribe, you should consider making it out of flat stock. It can then be shaped so the scribe point is flush with its lower surface, enabling the height gauge to be calibrated by running the scribe down to the surface it is resting on. The scribe can be made into an L shape to help it reach and/or the base can be slotted for clearance.
Tom
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oldgoaly (08-24-2013)
08-24-2013, 07:46 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-24-2013, 07:48 AM by chucketn.)
Forgot to update my finished Digital Height Gage. Made the scribe point and painted the metal. Also made a bigger brass lock knob.
Digital Height Gage
Already used it to verify the center height on the lathe and for help laying out the casting pattern for my LH Sparey Dividing Head.
Chuck
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Nice job. 
Ed
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