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Cross slide lock with a DRO fitted
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04-05-2013, 04:07 PM
(04-05-2013, 03:27 PM)stevec Wrote: Ed, is there a little dimple in the gib for the ball? Steve, I've heard that could happen but I haven't checked. I'll know soon enough though since a task that's quickly rising to the top of the list is to remove the table from the mill and inspect the leadscrew nuts. I suspect the 'Y' nut might be either close to worn out or is coming loose. The mill has gained a lot of backlash on the 'X' axis that I want to investigate also. Ed 
04-05-2013, 06:21 PM
Ed, I meant an intended dimple like a touch with a drill or ball end mill would produce so that the gib would be forced against the dovetail instead of forcing the gib upwards due to the angle.
Not to worry, it seems you have more pressing maters to attend to.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
04-05-2013, 06:28 PM
(04-05-2013, 06:21 PM)stevec Wrote: Ed, I meant an intended dimple like a touch with a drill or ball end mill would produce so that the gib would be forced against the dovetail instead of forcing the gib upwards due to the angle. Oops! Sorry Steve. I misunderstood your question. I don't think there's a designed in dimple. The dimple would move when you adjusted the gibs so it wouldn't make a lot of sense to design one in. Good question though. I'll check when I take the table apart. Ed 
04-05-2013, 07:30 PM
(04-05-2013, 09:38 AM)Mayhem Wrote:(04-05-2013, 09:21 AM)Dave J Wrote: ...I slipped in a bearing while I was there like I did to the mill when I got it. It make locking an axis so much easier with a bearing between the bolt and the tapered slug in the lock hole... My mill came with tapered slugs like in the drawing, so you put a single ball bearing in first then the gib lock bolt/handle. I also fitted one to the lathe years back that I forgot about. It makes doing up the axis so easy compared to not having it, the gib lock only need nipping up. ![[Image: crossslidelockdetail600x381_zps96a3d5ba.jpg]](http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww21/1top720/crossslidelockdetail600x381_zps96a3d5ba.jpg) Dave Thanks given by: Mayhem
04-05-2013, 07:34 PM
  DaveH
04-05-2013, 07:34 PM
Hi Ed,
I tried to put and edit in the first post with this drawing, but it said I couldn't because it's been over 120 minutes? If you could add this it would be appreciated. Here is another picture to clear things up as Ed asked in post 3. ![[Image: crossslidelayout600x381_zps902fe9d1.jpg]](http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww21/1top720/crossslidelayout600x381_zps902fe9d1.jpg) Dave
04-05-2013, 07:59 PM
So it looks like I should add the brass plugs to my mill. Shows you how much I know about machine design. I suppose it was a cost savings to the manufacturer to not put those in.
Ed 
04-05-2013, 08:17 PM
My Kondia has those brass slugs on two of the three knee locks.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Thanks given by: EdK
04-05-2013, 09:32 PM
(04-05-2013, 07:59 PM)EdK Wrote: So it looks like I should add the brass plugs to my mill. Shows you how much I know about machine design. I suppose it was a cost savings to the manufacturer to not put those in. Mild steel will do Ed, it will probably be better if your using a ball bearing as it wont dent or distort as easy as brass. Dave Thanks given by: EdK
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