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Building The Steven's Favorite
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09-27-2012, 02:33 PM
(09-27-2012, 09:08 AM)Highpower Wrote: The only problem with the brass tipped screws is that the dog points are awfully small. I'm thinking of making some larger brass "buttons" that will slip over the ends of the screws to get more contact area.Hi Willie, My thought is larger brass "buttons" won't necessarily increase the contact area especially on rounds   DaveH 
09-27-2012, 04:40 PM
(09-27-2012, 02:33 PM)DaveH Wrote: Hi Willie, That's a good point Dave. Unless you're working with stock with very large diameters larger buttons wouldn't do much good, I would think. I just drew it up in CAD to see at what point the 3/16" diameter brass point on the set screw would be fully against the stock. At 25" it still did not completely contact the brass point. I think we are good with the brass tipped set screws. Ed 
09-27-2012, 11:32 PM
(09-27-2012, 02:33 PM)DaveH Wrote: Hi Willie, Excellent point Dave. Now that you've said that, when I think about the contact area in the center of my chuck jaws - they aren't much wider.  And now that the "CAD wizard" has confirmed it, I guess I can assume that 1-1/2" stock will be securely held.  Thanks gents.
Willie
09-28-2012, 06:02 AM
09-28-2012, 01:14 PM
(09-28-2012, 06:02 AM)EdK Wrote: Well, I guess I'm good for something so maybe I'll stick around. So, how are you with schematics? (Hint, hint, wink, wink, nudge, nudge.)
Willie
09-28-2012, 01:18 PM
(09-28-2012, 01:14 PM)Highpower Wrote:(09-28-2012, 06:02 AM)EdK Wrote: Well, I guess I'm good for something so maybe I'll stick around. I'm in electronics for a living so if I suck at schematics then I'm in big trouble. I still have a job so I'm probably doing adequate with schematics. I'm assuming you're talking about electronic schematics. Ed
09-28-2012, 07:44 PM
(09-28-2012, 01:18 PM)EdK Wrote: I'm assuming you're talking about electronic schematics. Yes, I am. PM inbound.....
Willie
09-30-2012, 01:26 PM
Today I was working on a method of holding the gun drill in my lathe. Since the drill is actually longer than the lathe I decided that rather than hold the drill with the 3/4" shank, I would hold it in the middle with the boring bar holder. This required a special adapter (of course) to hold the funky shaped drill shank without crushing it. The adapter consists of a 3/4" piece of round with a 3/16" groove in it that has a radius in the bottom to match the drill shank. A 3/16" rectangular bar with a 120º included angle goes in the slot to clamp on the drill and a couple of collars with cap screws provides the clamping force. With this set-up I should be able to grip the drill close to the end of the barrel so I won't need to make a steady brace to support the center, although some sort of support will still be needed on the end of the drill where the coolant hoses attach.
Tom ![[Image: 003_13.JPG]](http://photos.imageevent.com/tomgriffin/buildingthestevensfavorite/large/003_13.JPG) ![[Image: 001_18.JPG]](http://photos.imageevent.com/tomgriffin/buildingthestevensfavorite/large/001_18.JPG) ![[Image: 002_18.JPG]](http://photos.imageevent.com/tomgriffin/buildingthestevensfavorite/large/002_18.JPG)
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