Posts: 8,889
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
I still think the plastic inserts pressed into the oak would look sharp. No glue needed and no worrying about the acid in the oak messing with your collets. Use a forstner bit to drill the holes in the oak and turn the plastic inserts on the lathe for a light press fit.
Ed
Posts: 537
Threads: 15
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Cambridge, England
Going back a few posts;
Don't write off copper nails, they aren't neccesarily pure copper and are hardened in manufacture, anyone having used "copper" sparkless chisels for cutting steel will attest to how hard copper alloys can be.
As an apprentice I did six solid weeks splitting rusted nuts off of salt water heat exchangers in a benzene, toluene and xylene manufacturing plant, it was too dangerous to use anything that could generate a spark, so no grinders, flame torches or steel tools of any kind just me a copper chisel and a copper hammer, and about 500 3/4" high tensile bolt sets, about a year later they banned the use of xylene in permanent marker pens as it was considered to be too poisonous being a known carcinogen, we were producing thousands of litres every day and breathing it for eight to ten hours a day made me so sick that after four days I couldn't work on the fridays, makes me wonder sometimes.
Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
Posts: 2,685
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Ya, true, berylium copper is one hard copy alloy I'm familiar with. I'm trying to remember what the copper nails I experience were used for, could it have been for those little copper straps for copper piping? I believe that was to avoid dissimilar metals reacting with each other.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.